If we haven't seen enough Caravaggio at the Borghese Gallery (where there are "almost a dozen"), or if we want to see some before our date with the Borghese, there are a number scattered through churches, and we can see them for free.
The Calling of St. Matthew shows Matthew in a tavern with his cronies counting the money they've extorted. In this, his first large-scale work, 29-year-old Caravaggio shocked critics and clerics by showing a holy scene in a down to earth location.
The Inspiration of St. Matthew shows him hard at work writing Jesus' life story when he's interrupted by "an angel with a few suggestions."
In the Martyrdom of St Matthew Caravaggio focuses a spotlight on Matthew and his killer. In the background (to the left of the Executioner's shoulder) is a self-portrait of Caravaggio observing the violence without getting involved.
Rick Steves feels that this is perhaps the most influential building in art history - the model for the Florence cathedral dome which launched the Renaissance, and for Michelangelo's dome of St. Peter's, which capped it all off. Even the U.S. Capitol was inspired by this dome. The dome, the largest made until the Renaissance, is made from concrete (a Roman invention, as we know) that gets lighter and thinner as it reaches the top. The coffered ceiling reduces the wight without compromising strength. And, at the top, the oculus (eye-in-the-sky) is the building's only light source.
After the fall of Rome, the Pantheon became a Christian church (from all the gods to all the martyrs) which saved it from architectural cannibalism and ensured its upkeep during the Dark Ages. The Pantheon is the only ancient building in Rome used continuously since its construction.
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Then, as Cathy, and the NY Times, have noted, we might watch, at 5:30 p.m. every day, a 20 minute services that is squarely in the Baroque tradition - a multimedia extravaganza that combines painting, sculpture, music, words, and lighting effect. Although R.S. cautions we shouldn't expect Hollywood-quality. The service starts with recorded music. Then a recorded voice (in Italian..Cathy will have to translate) tells the story of Ignatius, illustrated by spotlighting different parts of his tomb.
But wait!!! Isn't that Santa Maria sopra Minerva, Rome's only Gothic church, just around the corner?
San Luigi dei Francesi
The best place to find free Caravaggios in Rome is in the small church of San Luigi dei Francesi near Piazza Navona. This is the French national church in Rome with French motifs throughout..fleur-de-lis, salamanders, and, on the ceiling of the nave, is France's King (aka Saint) Louis ascending to heaven. Inside in the Contarelli Chapel (in the far left corner) you can see the master's "Saint Matthew" cycle: "The Calling of Saint Matthew," "Inspiration of Saint Matthew," and "The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew." Entrance to the church is free, though it will cost you a few euros to activate the lights to view the paintings.The Calling of St. Matthew shows Matthew in a tavern with his cronies counting the money they've extorted. In this, his first large-scale work, 29-year-old Caravaggio shocked critics and clerics by showing a holy scene in a down to earth location.
The Inspiration of St. Matthew shows him hard at work writing Jesus' life story when he's interrupted by "an angel with a few suggestions."In the Martyrdom of St Matthew Caravaggio focuses a spotlight on Matthew and his killer. In the background (to the left of the Executioner's shoulder) is a self-portrait of Caravaggio observing the violence without getting involved.
Saint' Agostino (a few blocks north)
The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco.Pantheon (a little bit south)
Now this is where I got diverted from Caravaggio. I glanced at a map. Look!! There is the Pantheon! There is so much history and so many chapters in Rome's history that it may be hard to stay focused. Given that, I'm sliding back to 27 B.C. when the original temple to all (pan) of the gods (theos) was built. OK, so what we see today was rebuilt by emperor Hadrian around 120 A.D. That's still a lot older than the liberty bell.Rick Steves feels that this is perhaps the most influential building in art history - the model for the Florence cathedral dome which launched the Renaissance, and for Michelangelo's dome of St. Peter's, which capped it all off. Even the U.S. Capitol was inspired by this dome. The dome, the largest made until the Renaissance, is made from concrete (a Roman invention, as we know) that gets lighter and thinner as it reaches the top. The coffered ceiling reduces the wight without compromising strength. And, at the top, the oculus (eye-in-the-sky) is the building's only light source.
After the fall of Rome, the Pantheon became a Christian church (from all the gods to all the martyrs) which saved it from architectural cannibalism and ensured its upkeep during the Dark Ages. The Pantheon is the only ancient building in Rome used continuously since its construction.
Gesu Church
And, if we still have strength, we can stop at the Gesu Church to admire the ceiling fresco - The Triumph of the Name of Jesus, look at the tombs of St. Ignatius of Loyola and St. Francis Xavier and learn about the Jesuit legacy culminating in 2013 with the ascension of Francesco I, the first Jesuit pope. The Gesu was the first Jesuit church to be built in Rome and its design epitomizes Counter-Reformation Baroque architecture (read over-the-top).But wait!!! Isn't that Santa Maria sopra Minerva, Rome's only Gothic church, just around the corner?
