This morning we walked back to the bus station to buy tickets to Madrid at 9:30 am on Saturday, because we are always worried that we might not get a seat. Usually such worries are unwarranted. The tickets were 15.40 euros apiece and the trip takes 2 hours and 45 minutes. Much more expensive than the price of buses from town to town.
Then we went to the Pato de ro for Cafe conleche and croissants a la plancha con mantequilla y mermelada. But they weren't as tasty as the ones in Logroño - or maybe food always tastes better the first time you have it.
After breakfast we were off on our tour of the city. We stopped by the Tourist Information Office in the Plaza Alonzo Martinez where Fernando picked up a second map showing the Monasterio de las huelgas on the western outskirts by the Albergue. Unfortunately during one of his pit stops, he misplaced his map so we had to go in the "general direction" to find it. We followed the Camino much of the way, as it is marked with the scallop shell.
Friday, May 11, 2007
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Camino Day 13, Thursday 5/10/07: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos
There were buses to Burgos at 9:15 and 11:45 in the morning. since the early bust to najera just got us to a town that hadn't awakened, we decided to take the 11:45 bus.
We had breakfast in a pasteleria and chocolate store because our exorbitant room price did not include the buffet breakfast. I'm afraid we feel that the paradores are not worth the extra cost. We could have bought our own toiletries at the pharmacy for much less :-).
We wandered around town, I checked my email and sent out a letter to everybody. I also responded to Camila's request that we go to Washington DC on June 6-7-8 to help her move in. She is moving a UPack container to move her stuff.
The booths for the festival still weren't open when we left but I have a feeling that they were mainly clothes and purses and other flea market items that we really wouldn't be interested in anyway. The bus was about 15 minutes late. It was run by Linea Jimenez and I swear it was the same driver that took us from Lograono to Najera and from Najera to Santo Domingo. As we drove along you could see the pilgrims on the camino that paralleled the highway. The camino was nice and flat and wide, like the one from Estella to Los Arcos. It always makes me sad to see them waling while we are in the bus. But I would rather travel without the backpack, using the two services Jacotrans (in La Rioja) and Globetrotters (in Burgos). There were packs in the Hotel Espana in Burgos from pilgrims using Globetrotters.
Around Villafranca de Montes de Oca, the road begins climbing into the mountains. It becomes forested with a deciduous tree that has not leafed out yet and then with conifers. There was a short stretch that was covered with a short shrub with mauve flowers. Oh! if honly we had been walking! The Camino guide says the forests were oak and then pine and it is heather covered moorland. The highest point on the Cmaino was 1,050 meters before reaching San Juan de ortega, which is off the highway and so we didn't see it.
The trip to Burgos on the bus only took about an hour and a half. By foot it would have been 3 days: Santo Domingo to Belorado (23.9 KM), Belorado to San Juan de Ortega (24.1 KM), and San Juan de ortega to Burgos (27.3 KM).
In Burgos, the bus station was not located far from our hotel, the Hotel España, which is across from the Teatro Principal. We got a room on the inside looking into a dirty pigeon-filled interiro "patio" but at least it was cool and quiet.
We first visited the Cathedral of Burgos, which is truly huge and magnificent and very beautiful. Primarily the stone carvings on all the columns and ceilings. Evidently it has been cleaned up recently because it looked fresh and new. VERY impressive and not to be missed.
Here's a statue of Santiago the Pilgrim.
And here's another one of Santiago the Moor Killer.
The stained glass in the ceiling was truly spectacular.
For lunch we went to a restaurant near the Cathedral that served a "gastronomic" menu of chorizo and morcilla (a specialty of Burgos), cordero lechal (supposedly suckling lamb but they cook everything here until it falls apart), sopa a la castellana (another bread soup) and queso de burgos for dessert. We also ordered two ensaladas mixtas. I am afraid we have reached our limit with Spanish food and that heavy meat diet. Fernando, however, keeps eating all the bread.
After such a meal, it is time for a siesta, a habit which we have been following religiously. Then, since Fernando always sleeps more than I do, it is time to wash clothes and shower.
Around 6 pm, life in Spanish cities picks up again and we walked quite a lot, exploring the area around the cathedral and our hotel. We found a vegetarian restaurant called Gaia near the Hotel Meson de Cid (El Cid, by the way, was born and buried in Burgos, enterred in the Cathedral although expelled from the city as a young man, hence his wanderings).
We also passed an ice cream shop called El Candilejo where Fernando had his espresso and I an orujo con hierbas (a liqueur). It was run by a man and wife and had Charlie Chaplin all over the walls. We decided to also order churros and torta de queso. Then we walked farther down the Calle San Juan to the bar and taps area but it looked like more drinking than eating was going on.
We had breakfast in a pasteleria and chocolate store because our exorbitant room price did not include the buffet breakfast. I'm afraid we feel that the paradores are not worth the extra cost. We could have bought our own toiletries at the pharmacy for much less :-).
We wandered around town, I checked my email and sent out a letter to everybody. I also responded to Camila's request that we go to Washington DC on June 6-7-8 to help her move in. She is moving a UPack container to move her stuff.
The booths for the festival still weren't open when we left but I have a feeling that they were mainly clothes and purses and other flea market items that we really wouldn't be interested in anyway. The bus was about 15 minutes late. It was run by Linea Jimenez and I swear it was the same driver that took us from Lograono to Najera and from Najera to Santo Domingo. As we drove along you could see the pilgrims on the camino that paralleled the highway. The camino was nice and flat and wide, like the one from Estella to Los Arcos. It always makes me sad to see them waling while we are in the bus. But I would rather travel without the backpack, using the two services Jacotrans (in La Rioja) and Globetrotters (in Burgos). There were packs in the Hotel Espana in Burgos from pilgrims using Globetrotters.
Around Villafranca de Montes de Oca, the road begins climbing into the mountains. It becomes forested with a deciduous tree that has not leafed out yet and then with conifers. There was a short stretch that was covered with a short shrub with mauve flowers. Oh! if honly we had been walking! The Camino guide says the forests were oak and then pine and it is heather covered moorland. The highest point on the Cmaino was 1,050 meters before reaching San Juan de ortega, which is off the highway and so we didn't see it.
The trip to Burgos on the bus only took about an hour and a half. By foot it would have been 3 days: Santo Domingo to Belorado (23.9 KM), Belorado to San Juan de Ortega (24.1 KM), and San Juan de ortega to Burgos (27.3 KM).
In Burgos, the bus station was not located far from our hotel, the Hotel España, which is across from the Teatro Principal. We got a room on the inside looking into a dirty pigeon-filled interiro "patio" but at least it was cool and quiet.
We first visited the Cathedral of Burgos, which is truly huge and magnificent and very beautiful. Primarily the stone carvings on all the columns and ceilings. Evidently it has been cleaned up recently because it looked fresh and new. VERY impressive and not to be missed. 
Here's a statue of Santiago the Pilgrim. 
And here's another one of Santiago the Moor Killer.
The stained glass in the ceiling was truly spectacular.
For lunch we went to a restaurant near the Cathedral that served a "gastronomic" menu of chorizo and morcilla (a specialty of Burgos), cordero lechal (supposedly suckling lamb but they cook everything here until it falls apart), sopa a la castellana (another bread soup) and queso de burgos for dessert. We also ordered two ensaladas mixtas. I am afraid we have reached our limit with Spanish food and that heavy meat diet. Fernando, however, keeps eating all the bread.After such a meal, it is time for a siesta, a habit which we have been following religiously. Then, since Fernando always sleeps more than I do, it is time to wash clothes and shower.
Around 6 pm, life in Spanish cities picks up again and we walked quite a lot, exploring the area around the cathedral and our hotel. We found a vegetarian restaurant called Gaia near the Hotel Meson de Cid (El Cid, by the way, was born and buried in Burgos, enterred in the Cathedral although expelled from the city as a young man, hence his wanderings).
We also passed an ice cream shop called El Candilejo where Fernando had his espresso and I an orujo con hierbas (a liqueur). It was run by a man and wife and had Charlie Chaplin all over the walls. We decided to also order churros and torta de queso. Then we walked farther down the Calle San Juan to the bar and taps area but it looked like more drinking than eating was going on.
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
Camino Day 12: Wednesday 5/9/07: Logrono to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
This morning we checked out and caught the 8:30 am bus to Najera,a town midway between Logroño and Santo Domingo de la Calzada and the next overnight stop on the Camino if we were walking. It is so sad not to be walking and to watch the other pilgrims from the bus.
Fernando liked Najera very much. The town has a clear wide stream running through it and it is built up against red sandstone cliffs, which contain caves that have been inhabited in former days. We walked around taking photos for a couple of hours, picking up souvenirs and pins for Fernando's hat. Oh, to be walking on the Camino - it was a nice sunny day with no rain and the terrain was flat. We picked up a couple of egg cups for will.
The bus trip to Santo Domingo de la Calzada was another 1/2 hour (another day's walk). From May 10-15th they are having their Dias del Santo,with bullfights and pelota games. They were setting up stalls and booths along the main pedestrian walk beside the main road. many of the vendors appeared to be Bolivian Indians or gypsies -- maybe Arabs.
We walked over to the Central Plaza of the old city to check in at our Parado de Santo Domingo, a former pilgrim hospital on the route. It was very expensive for us: 145 euros a night which is about $190. The room was large, with a small couch and a minibar (which, of course, we never take advantage of). The bathroom was all white/black marble with bathtub and bidet as well as the normal sink and toilet. All the toiletries were provided: shampoo/shower gel, lotion, agua de cologne, shoe sponge, comb, toothbrush and toothpaste, sewing kit.
The view from the window wasn't pretty: over backyards and so maybe one should always ask for a room with a view. The sun is very hot and bright now in Spain and so all houses have wooden or other shutters that completely shut out the light.
It doesn't take too long to wander over the whole casco viejo in these towns and so we were soon ready for lunch. But first we visited the cathedral for 1 euro (special peregrino price) and saw the live hen and rooster in their cage, which is the hallmark of Santo Domingo.
Centuries ago, a couple from France and their handsome son were on their way to Santiago. An innkeeper's daughter made advances toward the son and was rejected. In revenge, she hid silver in his bags and accused him of theft. he was subsequently found guilty and hung. The sad parents proceeded on to Santiago and upon their return, they saw that their son was hanging alive. They went to the mayor of the town to proclaim it as a miracle and have their son released. But the mayor said that their son was no more alive than the hen and cock that he was presently dining upon. At which point both fowls got up and crowed. So the mayor released the son and the family was reunited and went home happily. Thus you see these two fowls all over Santo Domingo.
For lunch we finally found the Restaurant Hidalgo on the second floor of a building. In the stairwell there were already 4 workers in line. The dining room was already full but we were seated within about 10 minutes. The establishment was run by a man and his wife who were rushing around clearing and serving about 15 tables. Most of the diners were laborers. I had the famous ensalada mixta (and then wished I had ordered the tomate con atun when I saw it). Fernando had lentejas. For the segundo I asked if I could have the alubias blancas of the primero instead and the patron said "claro" (so it would actually be easy to eat vegetarian). Fernando had calvos madrilenos or tripe. For dessert we both had the postres de la casera - made in house: flan and arroz con leche. Naturally we finished an entire bottle of wine and gaseosa. I should mention here that we ran across a trio of Spanish pilgrims that we had met in Puente la Reina and then again in Logrono: two middle-aged women and a man. They really enjoyed eating - just like us.
After such a repast one has to have a siesta. Fernando took one for two hours but after the first hour I decided to get up and look around the town some more (I was missing the walking of the Camino). Afterall, we weren't caminando but gaining weight.
I forgot to mention that before lunch we had picked up some typical breads of Santo Domingo. The first, a torta, wasn't bad but smelled like ammonia. The second one was a special "bollos del santo" (turds of the saint) that were supposed to have canela and anis but tasted really of nothing.
After Fernando's siesta, around 8 pm, we went out again and the town was hopping! Everyone was going to mass and the church was full so we had to skip that. The sky here is still dusk until 10 pm so there is a fair amount of time to do things. Although I don't think stores are open long hours (except for supermarkets) since they open at 10 am, close at 2 pm, reopen around 4;30 pm and then close at 8 pm. But I guess that's no worse than stores in the United States that open at 10 am and close at 5 pm.
There are two albergues for pilgrims in Santo Domingo. One had an Internet connection and self-service laundry in a building in front.
Fernando liked Najera very much. The town has a clear wide stream running through it and it is built up against red sandstone cliffs, which contain caves that have been inhabited in former days. We walked around taking photos for a couple of hours, picking up souvenirs and pins for Fernando's hat. Oh, to be walking on the Camino - it was a nice sunny day with no rain and the terrain was flat. We picked up a couple of egg cups for will.
The bus trip to Santo Domingo de la Calzada was another 1/2 hour (another day's walk). From May 10-15th they are having their Dias del Santo,with bullfights and pelota games. They were setting up stalls and booths along the main pedestrian walk beside the main road. many of the vendors appeared to be Bolivian Indians or gypsies -- maybe Arabs.
We walked over to the Central Plaza of the old city to check in at our Parado de Santo Domingo, a former pilgrim hospital on the route. It was very expensive for us: 145 euros a night which is about $190. The room was large, with a small couch and a minibar (which, of course, we never take advantage of). The bathroom was all white/black marble with bathtub and bidet as well as the normal sink and toilet. All the toiletries were provided: shampoo/shower gel, lotion, agua de cologne, shoe sponge, comb, toothbrush and toothpaste, sewing kit.The view from the window wasn't pretty: over backyards and so maybe one should always ask for a room with a view. The sun is very hot and bright now in Spain and so all houses have wooden or other shutters that completely shut out the light.
It doesn't take too long to wander over the whole casco viejo in these towns and so we were soon ready for lunch. But first we visited the cathedral for 1 euro (special peregrino price) and saw the live hen and rooster in their cage, which is the hallmark of Santo Domingo. 
Centuries ago, a couple from France and their handsome son were on their way to Santiago. An innkeeper's daughter made advances toward the son and was rejected. In revenge, she hid silver in his bags and accused him of theft. he was subsequently found guilty and hung. The sad parents proceeded on to Santiago and upon their return, they saw that their son was hanging alive. They went to the mayor of the town to proclaim it as a miracle and have their son released. But the mayor said that their son was no more alive than the hen and cock that he was presently dining upon. At which point both fowls got up and crowed. So the mayor released the son and the family was reunited and went home happily. Thus you see these two fowls all over Santo Domingo.For lunch we finally found the Restaurant Hidalgo on the second floor of a building. In the stairwell there were already 4 workers in line. The dining room was already full but we were seated within about 10 minutes. The establishment was run by a man and his wife who were rushing around clearing and serving about 15 tables. Most of the diners were laborers. I had the famous ensalada mixta (and then wished I had ordered the tomate con atun when I saw it). Fernando had lentejas. For the segundo I asked if I could have the alubias blancas of the primero instead and the patron said "claro" (so it would actually be easy to eat vegetarian). Fernando had calvos madrilenos or tripe. For dessert we both had the postres de la casera - made in house: flan and arroz con leche. Naturally we finished an entire bottle of wine and gaseosa. I should mention here that we ran across a trio of Spanish pilgrims that we had met in Puente la Reina and then again in Logrono: two middle-aged women and a man. They really enjoyed eating - just like us.
After such a repast one has to have a siesta. Fernando took one for two hours but after the first hour I decided to get up and look around the town some more (I was missing the walking of the Camino). Afterall, we weren't caminando but gaining weight.
I forgot to mention that before lunch we had picked up some typical breads of Santo Domingo. The first, a torta, wasn't bad but smelled like ammonia. The second one was a special "bollos del santo" (turds of the saint) that were supposed to have canela and anis but tasted really of nothing.
After Fernando's siesta, around 8 pm, we went out again and the town was hopping! Everyone was going to mass and the church was full so we had to skip that. The sky here is still dusk until 10 pm so there is a fair amount of time to do things. Although I don't think stores are open long hours (except for supermarkets) since they open at 10 am, close at 2 pm, reopen around 4;30 pm and then close at 8 pm. But I guess that's no worse than stores in the United States that open at 10 am and close at 5 pm.
There are two albergues for pilgrims in Santo Domingo. One had an Internet connection and self-service laundry in a building in front.
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Camino Day 11, Tuesday 5/8/07: Logroño
This is our second day in Logroño. I forgot to mention that Fernando's big toenail on the left foot is turning blue and going to fall off so we have stopped the Camino and he has bought a pair of Spanish sandals so that it doesn't rub against the shoe. I never thought I'd see the day he wore sandals.
We had breakfast down the street at El Pato: cafe con leche with croissants grilled with butter and served with mermelada. I said "sounds horridly fattening" but it sure tasted good.
Then we walked around the mercado and the old city some more, stopping at a cultural center where senior citizens had made their own alpargatas, the sandals made from fique fiber, like zapatillas.
In Logrono there is a relief sculpture of Santiago Matamoros or Moor killer and lots of balconies and windows with flower boxes.
We then ventured out to the newer part, stopped at a grocery store and picked up cheese, canned piquillo peppers, fruit and bread for lunch. I felt funny eating lunch in the park. From 12 to 2 we wandered over to the Biblioteca Publica where Fernando read his "Cien Años" and I looked at magazines, trying to glean information about the food and agriculture of the area. At 2 there is nothing really to do but go back to the hotel and take a siesta - which we did until 4, since it actually felt good.
After the siesta we walked down the central walkway lined with European plane trees to the universidad de la Rioja, but there really wasn't anything to see.
Fernando had an espresso and I had a Belgian ale (Gulden Draak - golden dragon) in a wonderful goblet that I wish I could have taken back for Will. Here you can see Fernando's Spanish sandals.
And here you can see that wonderful goblet. This was the only place in Spain where we ran across interesting beers. It must have been the student populations.
We took the bus back to the Casco Viejo where we ran into the German couple from Puente la Reina. They have decided only to walk 10 kilometers a day because she is having problems with her arthritis. But they are retired and have the time to do it.
We stopped by an Italian ice (or helado veneziano) store and Fernando asked for avellano (hazelnut) which was awfully good. Now we are taking a break until the tapas bars open at 8:30 or 9 pm.
We went to Calle San Juan for tapas but they didn't have many bars. We had a very good tortilla espanola with hot pepper sauce at Tortilla Ma Mere and grilled champignones at another place where 3 Muslim young women with head scarves were having tapas with wine. I think they knew the bartender. We decided to go back to Calle Laurel where Fernando had fried calamares and I just had a chorizo in a roll. Then we had patatas bravas but I still think the mayonnaise and tomato sauce are too much. We had eaten so many tapas the night before that this was enough.
We had breakfast down the street at El Pato: cafe con leche with croissants grilled with butter and served with mermelada. I said "sounds horridly fattening" but it sure tasted good.
Then we walked around the mercado and the old city some more, stopping at a cultural center where senior citizens had made their own alpargatas, the sandals made from fique fiber, like zapatillas.
In Logrono there is a relief sculpture of Santiago Matamoros or Moor killer and lots of balconies and windows with flower boxes.
We then ventured out to the newer part, stopped at a grocery store and picked up cheese, canned piquillo peppers, fruit and bread for lunch. I felt funny eating lunch in the park. From 12 to 2 we wandered over to the Biblioteca Publica where Fernando read his "Cien Años" and I looked at magazines, trying to glean information about the food and agriculture of the area. At 2 there is nothing really to do but go back to the hotel and take a siesta - which we did until 4, since it actually felt good.
After the siesta we walked down the central walkway lined with European plane trees to the universidad de la Rioja, but there really wasn't anything to see.
Fernando had an espresso and I had a Belgian ale (Gulden Draak - golden dragon) in a wonderful goblet that I wish I could have taken back for Will. Here you can see Fernando's Spanish sandals.
And here you can see that wonderful goblet. This was the only place in Spain where we ran across interesting beers. It must have been the student populations.
We took the bus back to the Casco Viejo where we ran into the German couple from Puente la Reina. They have decided only to walk 10 kilometers a day because she is having problems with her arthritis. But they are retired and have the time to do it.
We stopped by an Italian ice (or helado veneziano) store and Fernando asked for avellano (hazelnut) which was awfully good. Now we are taking a break until the tapas bars open at 8:30 or 9 pm.
We went to Calle San Juan for tapas but they didn't have many bars. We had a very good tortilla espanola with hot pepper sauce at Tortilla Ma Mere and grilled champignones at another place where 3 Muslim young women with head scarves were having tapas with wine. I think they knew the bartender. We decided to go back to Calle Laurel where Fernando had fried calamares and I just had a chorizo in a roll. Then we had patatas bravas but I still think the mayonnaise and tomato sauce are too much. We had eaten so many tapas the night before that this was enough.
Monday, May 7, 2007
Camino Day 10, Monday 5/7/07: Viana to Logroño
The bus trip from Viana to Logroño is very short - about 15 minutes and when we missed the bus at 9 am we were tempted to walk. But I didn't have my boots on and I don't think Fernando would have been good for much else after the walk (about 6 miles). We had a good tortilla espanola for breakfast and it was a good thing because the wait for the next bus at 11:30 was very long, windy and cold. It is hard to believe it was that cold because I am writing this on Tuesday and today is a very sunny, hot day.
Before we went to wait for it, however, we went photoshooting around town again. The architecture is very historic and the balconies serve as backyards: for hanging laundry and airing the dog. 
And one can never have enough photos of young artichokes and other spring vegetables like green onions and borage.In Logroño, the bus left us off at the bus station in and we started walking towards the Casco Viejo (old town) only to discover we were going in the wrong direction and so had to reverse our steps. Logroño is quite big with some broad sycamore planted avenues. They have these very typical wooden and glass balconies that look over the sidewalk.
Fernando always has to stop at the panaderia and we picked up a fardelejo, which wasn't too good, and a teja, which was. We eat way too much bread.
Our hostal, Hostal Niza, is well situated and our room is on the second floor and overlooks the street. It is expensive (65 euros) but Spain IS expensive, except for the albergues.
The windows are double and the interior one has double panes so it must get cold in the winter.
The hostal is located behind the mercado and between the two tapas streets: Calle Laurel and Calle San Juan. The worst thing about the hostal is that the rugs are thin, stained, and look dirty: I don't think they have vacuum cleaners. (Mother noted this in Burgos on their Triumph rally to Europe in 1958 - that they used brooms but that everything was immaculate.)We ate a salad and piquillo peppers for lunch because Fernando doesn't want any more menus del dia. Everything shuts down from 2-4:30 for lunch and siesta. So we took a nap ourselves and then went out walking again. Fernando picked up a commemorative edition of Cien Años de Soledad by Gabriel Garcia Marquez (he finished it on the flight back to Pittsburgh while I was watching 4 movies).
We decided to do tapas for dinner, which doesn't start until 8:30 or 9 pm, on the Calle Laurel just up the street from our hostal. The first place wasn't very good: berenjena and cheese fried in a batter. The eggplant wasn't cooked enough and it wasn't very tasty.
The next place had grilled champignones which were very good. Then we had pinchos moruños, also good. By now we have had 3 glasses of wine. There was a Spaniard leading a tourist group and so he made a point of telling us also which were the good pinchos. The next one had salchicha and quail egg (good). We also had chorizo and green fried peppers (good). Then the Spaniard pointed out a place with pinchos ibericos - or pork shish kebab with meat from the pata negra pig. It was very good but probably mainly because it was roasted over a wood fire. 
Lastly we had pulpo (octopus) a la gallego which I thought was good but Fernando didn't care for. It was after 10 when we got home. When we do this again it won't be after drinking a bottle of cidra! (which we picked up at a grocery store just to test whether it was really as bad as the stuff we had in Barcelona.)
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Camino Day 9, Sunday 5/6/07: Los Arcos to Viana
This morning we got off at 7 am, mainly because there was no place in town to have cafe con leche with croissants. The bar behind the gas station near the hotel that normally opens at 7:30 am on weekdays was closed (it was Sunday). So we started out without breakfast. On the way, we met a Canadian couple from Toronto and walked with them a spell. But they walk faster than we do, especially faster than Fernando who is even slower now that his toenails are turning blue and falling off. It is hard for him to go down hills because his toe jams against the end of the shoe. And today there were lots of subir y bajar- so much that we walked on the N111 highway for part of the route. But so many motorcycles were using it as a speedway that we went back to the camino. It was only muddy in spots but very uneven and rocky so that you had to pay attention to your every step.The countryside was drier and scrubbier and not as pretty as yesterday so I took very few photos. The towns are few and nondescript - perhaps because it was Sunday and nothing was open. Eventhough it was 19 kilometers from Los Arcos to Viana, it somehow seemed shorter than the previous day, which was easier walking. We arrived at 1 pm (6 hours walking) and then I couldn't find the address of Juani, the woman who lets out rooms in her house. It was on a little piece of paper and quite like any other little piece of paper. I think Fernando actually wanted to stay in the albergue - they are much cheaper (5 euros) and not bad at all. And the people are interesting and educated.
However, I managed to locate the paper and then we asked a man about the location. He said it was way beyond the Transversal. But I stopped by the Navarran tourist office in the main square which was open, got a map of the town and found that Juani's was only 2 blocks away.
Viana was celebrating Mother's day and everyone was out, including a little band that Fernando ran after (yes, even with his bad toes) trying to take pictures of.
"23 Medio de San Juan" was gehind one of the large old doors with a "mano de fatima" door knocker. Juani greeted us with smiles and enthusiasm so right away we felt welcome.
The room she took us to was at the back and opened out onto the street behind from the second floor (it was on the first floor on Medio de San Juan). The room was long and skinny with old wood floors and a little balcony. Kind of funky but charming. We share a bath across the hall.
We had the menu del dia next door at the Bar Pitu - cordero, judias verdes, and flan. Fernando had the ensalada mixta and arroz con leche. Naturally we mixed the wine with "gaseosa" and finished the bottle.
Then time to take a bath and a siesta (or did we take a bath before lunch?) After walking 6 hours it feels so good to lie down. And I like the Spanish idea of two single beds instead of a double.
After our nap we walked over to the albergue to use the Internet and get phone reception so we could call Mother, Willy, Juan and Camila. The phone has not had service except in large towns.
The albergue seemed nice. They had a mud room for the boots. Perhaps they did not allow people in with muddy feet. And of course the pilgrims did their laundry as did we. Fernando took a little tour and took a bunch of photos of the town.
Tomorrow we will take a bus to Logroño where we will stay two nights and experience the "tapas" bars on Calle Laurel. On Wednesday we will take a bus to Santo Domingo de la Calzada and then on Thursday to Burgos.
Saturday, May 5, 2007
Camino Day 8, Saturday 5/5/07: Estella to Los Arco
Carlos at the Hostal Volante convinced us to use the "Jacotrans" service to carry our backpacks from the hostal to the Hotel Monaco in Los Arcos. He said we would enjoy the walk more. We had heard of the service in Puente La Reina's albergue and a Dutch woman with a bad back who was using a cart, decided to send her luggage that way so that she could go on the regular Camino rather than the highways.
It cost 7 euros per mochila and we were afraid that it might not work, but we were willing to try anything that would make the Camino easier. So we left Estella with our purses and the top fanny pack from my backpack and packed up the backpacks in their duffle bags, labeled them "Hotel Monaco, Los Arcos" attached 15 Euros in a plastic bag and began the Camino.
We first went across the street to a panaderia "PAN" for our normal croissant and cafe con leche. Then we started out, walking for quite some time before we actually left the city. The Camino goes up into the foothills where there are many new houses as well as a brand new albergue. A good place to stay but far from the city center.
Next, we made a short detour to Irache to visit the famous Irache fuente that gives both water and wine. it is attached to the Bodegas irache and we mixed a bottle with water. Very welcome and a stop I wouldn't have missed for the world!
Then were were off on the real Camino, seeing few other peregrinos. We had left Estella at 8:15am (so much for the early start) so all the power walkers were 3 hours into the Camino. The walk today was the best yet because it was flat and hardly mudy at all. One of the first (of very few) towns along the route was Arqueta where we were accosted by the famous Pablito Sanz who said that there was no bar with cafe but that there should be one in two months. He then said he could stamp or credenciales in his house, which he did, and then he showed us a stone marker in his back yard which was supposed to be 800 years old. He took us into his shed so that Fernando could get a scallop shell (I already had one) and he also gave him a "calabaza" or bottle gourd for water. A very nice interesting feature of the road. When we finally got off again, after 20 minutes, Fernando looked even more like El Peregrino than he did before!!
The walk continued up and down, windy with threatening clouds and partial sun. We went to Monjardin and got another stamp on our credencial from the Dutch albergue there. If every walk was like today, there would be no problem with the Camino. Unfortunately there were no towns after Monjardin and I like the small villages.
We arrived in Los Arcos at about 2:20 pm and the streets are narrow with old buildings. We found our Hotel Monaco and WERE NOT IMPRESSED. All because of a very unwelcoming desk manager. She wasn't there to begin with and she did not smile but proceeded to tell us that the last guest had broken the "tapa" del bano (which we later learned was the seat of the toilet) and that they couldn't fix it because today was Saturday but would give us a discuento. Although it is a 3 star hotel it doesn't have phones in the room, doesn't have a 24 hour desk clerk (only 9 am to 8 pm). Si I see no difference between it and a hostal. Supposedly it has a restaurant but when we asked t eat there, she said it was "completo" or full even though there were tables vacant. Obviously it will get a very bad writeup from us in TripAdvisor. The security is also not good since anyone can enter from the street when the reception area is closed.
I went to take a shower and there was only lukewarm water. Fernando complained and the desk lady said you have to wait for the water to travel up to the third floor. She was right. It got hot after you ran it for a time.
There were lots of bars in the town but we had trouble finding a restaurant to eat in. Finally we found La Gargantua which specializes in paella, pizza, and pasta. Fernando naturally ordered the paella and I the menu del dia with an ensalada mixta (lettuce with tomatoes, hardboiled eggs and tuna) piquillos rellenos (red peppers stuffed with meat) and flan for dessert. It was quite good. Naturall we had the house red wine with gaseosa - which is a slightly sweetened seltzer water with lemon flavoring.
After la comida, we came back and took a nap. Then we showered and went to the 8 o'clock mass at the church. The priest was very welcoming (he made up for the hotel) and gave us each a pilgrim blessing and asked where we were from. There are very few Americans. And we got our credencial stamped at the church because I doubt that the Hotel Monaco has even heard of the Camino!!
Now Fernando is washing out his calabaza...
It cost 7 euros per mochila and we were afraid that it might not work, but we were willing to try anything that would make the Camino easier. So we left Estella with our purses and the top fanny pack from my backpack and packed up the backpacks in their duffle bags, labeled them "Hotel Monaco, Los Arcos" attached 15 Euros in a plastic bag and began the Camino.
We first went across the street to a panaderia "PAN" for our normal croissant and cafe con leche. Then we started out, walking for quite some time before we actually left the city. The Camino goes up into the foothills where there are many new houses as well as a brand new albergue. A good place to stay but far from the city center.
Next, we made a short detour to Irache to visit the famous Irache fuente that gives both water and wine. it is attached to the Bodegas irache and we mixed a bottle with water. Very welcome and a stop I wouldn't have missed for the world!
Then were were off on the real Camino, seeing few other peregrinos. We had left Estella at 8:15am (so much for the early start) so all the power walkers were 3 hours into the Camino. The walk today was the best yet because it was flat and hardly mudy at all. One of the first (of very few) towns along the route was Arqueta where we were accosted by the famous Pablito Sanz who said that there was no bar with cafe but that there should be one in two months. He then said he could stamp or credenciales in his house, which he did, and then he showed us a stone marker in his back yard which was supposed to be 800 years old. He took us into his shed so that Fernando could get a scallop shell (I already had one) and he also gave him a "calabaza" or bottle gourd for water. A very nice interesting feature of the road. When we finally got off again, after 20 minutes, Fernando looked even more like El Peregrino than he did before!!
The walk continued up and down, windy with threatening clouds and partial sun. We went to Monjardin and got another stamp on our credencial from the Dutch albergue there. If every walk was like today, there would be no problem with the Camino. Unfortunately there were no towns after Monjardin and I like the small villages.
We arrived in Los Arcos at about 2:20 pm and the streets are narrow with old buildings. We found our Hotel Monaco and WERE NOT IMPRESSED. All because of a very unwelcoming desk manager. She wasn't there to begin with and she did not smile but proceeded to tell us that the last guest had broken the "tapa" del bano (which we later learned was the seat of the toilet) and that they couldn't fix it because today was Saturday but would give us a discuento. Although it is a 3 star hotel it doesn't have phones in the room, doesn't have a 24 hour desk clerk (only 9 am to 8 pm). Si I see no difference between it and a hostal. Supposedly it has a restaurant but when we asked t eat there, she said it was "completo" or full even though there were tables vacant. Obviously it will get a very bad writeup from us in TripAdvisor. The security is also not good since anyone can enter from the street when the reception area is closed.
I went to take a shower and there was only lukewarm water. Fernando complained and the desk lady said you have to wait for the water to travel up to the third floor. She was right. It got hot after you ran it for a time.
There were lots of bars in the town but we had trouble finding a restaurant to eat in. Finally we found La Gargantua which specializes in paella, pizza, and pasta. Fernando naturally ordered the paella and I the menu del dia with an ensalada mixta (lettuce with tomatoes, hardboiled eggs and tuna) piquillos rellenos (red peppers stuffed with meat) and flan for dessert. It was quite good. Naturall we had the house red wine with gaseosa - which is a slightly sweetened seltzer water with lemon flavoring.
After la comida, we came back and took a nap. Then we showered and went to the 8 o'clock mass at the church. The priest was very welcoming (he made up for the hotel) and gave us each a pilgrim blessing and asked where we were from. There are very few Americans. And we got our credencial stamped at the church because I doubt that the Hotel Monaco has even heard of the Camino!!
Now Fernando is washing out his calabaza...
Friday, May 4, 2007
Camino Day 7, Friday 5/4/07: Puente La Reina to Estella
[This was posted on Saturday] I cannot believe that I didn't write anything yesterday. We enjoyed Puente la Reina. Fernando complained about the Menu del Dia at a restaurant downtown but it was fine for me (I had fried fish and he had codornices but I think he was disappointed at their size). The stay in the refugio was good, although Fernando complained (again) about the snoring of the man from Germany and of an older woman from Germany. The German couple in the bunk beside us had spent 3 years in Chicago. She had arthritis and they were going to take a slow day on Friday. Then we met a couple of Norwegian women who were also going to take a day of rest. Many of the pilgrims were cooking their food or eating simple things they had bought at grocery stores. They are all quite frugal.
The next day, Friday, started out raining with a thunderstorm and continued. After our experience in Zubiri, we decided we were not up to walking in the rain. We stopped for breakfast at a chain called Taberna and the proprietor told us not to go by the Camino but to go by the "old road" that had been replaced by a new highway, because there was too much mud on the Camino.
We decided instead to cop out and take the bus to Estella. We missed the 7;50 am bus by about 10 minutes and had to wait in a panaderia for 2 hours for the 10 o'clock bus. But it only cost 1.93 euros and took 1/2 hour to Estella. We passed many sopping peregrinos on the road.
Estella is a city of 15,000 and much larger than Puente la Reina. While in Uterga we made reservations at the Hostal Volante (at the suggestion of the hostal owner in Uterga). Although on the outskirts of town, it was a very nice hostal, and the proprietor, Carlos, was a gem. The hostal was full because of a wedding but Carlos put another bed into a single room to accommodate us.
We went to a nearby supermarket and picked up food for lunch. I'd prefer to eat a menu del dia at 2 pm but Fernando always wants a snack and that screws up the schedule.
After our snack we went walking in the downtown area but it was very dead because it was during their siesta. I was very impressed with the town because the curbs and central gutter in the streets were of black marble.
Back at the Hostal Volante we took a nap and then talked to Carlos about a place to find "Gorrin asado" or roasted suckling pig, which is a specialty of the area. Carlos made reservations for us and then helped us plan the following day. We were pretty down on the Camino and just wanted to get to Logroño. However we found that there were absolutely no accommodations for Saturday night in Logrono. Instead, Carlos called various hostales and hotels in the next stage of the camino and made us reservations at the Hotel Monaco in Los Arcos and then at a private home in Viana, the place where Cesar Borgia dies and where Fernando really wanted to visit.
Then we walked back downtown (it must have been around 6 pm) and were surprised at how crowded it had become compared to "siesta time". We recharged Fernando's vodaphone at a tobacco shop (he still can't get reception in the smaller towns), watched a "sardana" trio in the town square, bought chocolates and alpargatas as we waited around for the restaurant to open at 9 pm.
We really didn't need reservations because nobody else was there. Our waiter was Colombian - he noticed Fernando's accent before we noticed his. - from Pereira. I ordered Piquillo peppers which were VERY good. The gorrin was a disappointment for me - too much skin and integuments and too little meat - enough to make you a vegetarian in no time - and it needed salt and Spaniards never put salt on the table. And it was pricey 948 euros) but not as much as we would pay in the US perhaps.
By then we were pooped and headed home. We talked to Susan and Grandma and to Camila that day. The night before in the refugio in Puente LaReina I sent a large email to everybody because again Fernando did not have phone reception.
That is an advantage to the refugios: they often have internet access where as hostales and hotels do not. We slept very well at the Hostal Volante even though it was on the major roadways. They had double paned windows and those Spanish pull-down blinds that shut out the street lights.
The next day, Friday, started out raining with a thunderstorm and continued. After our experience in Zubiri, we decided we were not up to walking in the rain. We stopped for breakfast at a chain called Taberna and the proprietor told us not to go by the Camino but to go by the "old road" that had been replaced by a new highway, because there was too much mud on the Camino.
We decided instead to cop out and take the bus to Estella. We missed the 7;50 am bus by about 10 minutes and had to wait in a panaderia for 2 hours for the 10 o'clock bus. But it only cost 1.93 euros and took 1/2 hour to Estella. We passed many sopping peregrinos on the road.
Estella is a city of 15,000 and much larger than Puente la Reina. While in Uterga we made reservations at the Hostal Volante (at the suggestion of the hostal owner in Uterga). Although on the outskirts of town, it was a very nice hostal, and the proprietor, Carlos, was a gem. The hostal was full because of a wedding but Carlos put another bed into a single room to accommodate us.
We went to a nearby supermarket and picked up food for lunch. I'd prefer to eat a menu del dia at 2 pm but Fernando always wants a snack and that screws up the schedule.
After our snack we went walking in the downtown area but it was very dead because it was during their siesta. I was very impressed with the town because the curbs and central gutter in the streets were of black marble.
Back at the Hostal Volante we took a nap and then talked to Carlos about a place to find "Gorrin asado" or roasted suckling pig, which is a specialty of the area. Carlos made reservations for us and then helped us plan the following day. We were pretty down on the Camino and just wanted to get to Logroño. However we found that there were absolutely no accommodations for Saturday night in Logrono. Instead, Carlos called various hostales and hotels in the next stage of the camino and made us reservations at the Hotel Monaco in Los Arcos and then at a private home in Viana, the place where Cesar Borgia dies and where Fernando really wanted to visit.
Then we walked back downtown (it must have been around 6 pm) and were surprised at how crowded it had become compared to "siesta time". We recharged Fernando's vodaphone at a tobacco shop (he still can't get reception in the smaller towns), watched a "sardana" trio in the town square, bought chocolates and alpargatas as we waited around for the restaurant to open at 9 pm.
We really didn't need reservations because nobody else was there. Our waiter was Colombian - he noticed Fernando's accent before we noticed his. - from Pereira. I ordered Piquillo peppers which were VERY good. The gorrin was a disappointment for me - too much skin and integuments and too little meat - enough to make you a vegetarian in no time - and it needed salt and Spaniards never put salt on the table. And it was pricey 948 euros) but not as much as we would pay in the US perhaps.
By then we were pooped and headed home. We talked to Susan and Grandma and to Camila that day. The night before in the refugio in Puente LaReina I sent a large email to everybody because again Fernando did not have phone reception.
That is an advantage to the refugios: they often have internet access where as hostales and hotels do not. We slept very well at the Hostal Volante even though it was on the major roadways. They had double paned windows and those Spanish pull-down blinds that shut out the street lights.
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