Fernando liked Najera very much. The town has a clear wide stream running through it and it is built up against red sandstone cliffs, which contain caves that have been inhabited in former days. We walked around taking photos for a couple of hours, picking up souvenirs and pins for Fernando's hat. Oh, to be walking on the Camino - it was a nice sunny day with no rain and the terrain was flat. We picked up a couple of egg cups for will.
The bus trip to Santo Domingo de la Calzada was another 1/2 hour (another day's walk). From May 10-15th they are having their Dias del Santo,with bullfights and pelota games. They were setting up stalls and booths along the main pedestrian walk beside the main road. many of the vendors appeared to be Bolivian Indians or gypsies -- maybe Arabs.
We walked over to the Central Plaza of the old city to check in at our Parado de Santo Domingo, a former pilgrim hospital on the route. It was very expensive for us: 145 euros a night which is about $190. The room was large, with a small couch and a minibar (which, of course, we never take advantage of). The bathroom was all white/black marble with bathtub and bidet as well as the normal sink and toilet. All the toiletries were provided: shampoo/shower gel, lotion, agua de cologne, shoe sponge, comb, toothbrush and toothpaste, sewing kit.The view from the window wasn't pretty: over backyards and so maybe one should always ask for a room with a view. The sun is very hot and bright now in Spain and so all houses have wooden or other shutters that completely shut out the light.
It doesn't take too long to wander over the whole casco viejo in these towns and so we were soon ready for lunch. But first we visited the cathedral for 1 euro (special peregrino price) and saw the live hen and rooster in their cage, which is the hallmark of Santo Domingo. 
Centuries ago, a couple from France and their handsome son were on their way to Santiago. An innkeeper's daughter made advances toward the son and was rejected. In revenge, she hid silver in his bags and accused him of theft. he was subsequently found guilty and hung. The sad parents proceeded on to Santiago and upon their return, they saw that their son was hanging alive. They went to the mayor of the town to proclaim it as a miracle and have their son released. But the mayor said that their son was no more alive than the hen and cock that he was presently dining upon. At which point both fowls got up and crowed. So the mayor released the son and the family was reunited and went home happily. Thus you see these two fowls all over Santo Domingo.For lunch we finally found the Restaurant Hidalgo on the second floor of a building. In the stairwell there were already 4 workers in line. The dining room was already full but we were seated within about 10 minutes. The establishment was run by a man and his wife who were rushing around clearing and serving about 15 tables. Most of the diners were laborers. I had the famous ensalada mixta (and then wished I had ordered the tomate con atun when I saw it). Fernando had lentejas. For the segundo I asked if I could have the alubias blancas of the primero instead and the patron said "claro" (so it would actually be easy to eat vegetarian). Fernando had calvos madrilenos or tripe. For dessert we both had the postres de la casera - made in house: flan and arroz con leche. Naturally we finished an entire bottle of wine and gaseosa. I should mention here that we ran across a trio of Spanish pilgrims that we had met in Puente la Reina and then again in Logrono: two middle-aged women and a man. They really enjoyed eating - just like us.
After such a repast one has to have a siesta. Fernando took one for two hours but after the first hour I decided to get up and look around the town some more (I was missing the walking of the Camino). Afterall, we weren't caminando but gaining weight.
I forgot to mention that before lunch we had picked up some typical breads of Santo Domingo. The first, a torta, wasn't bad but smelled like ammonia. The second one was a special "bollos del santo" (turds of the saint) that were supposed to have canela and anis but tasted really of nothing.
After Fernando's siesta, around 8 pm, we went out again and the town was hopping! Everyone was going to mass and the church was full so we had to skip that. The sky here is still dusk until 10 pm so there is a fair amount of time to do things. Although I don't think stores are open long hours (except for supermarkets) since they open at 10 am, close at 2 pm, reopen around 4;30 pm and then close at 8 pm. But I guess that's no worse than stores in the United States that open at 10 am and close at 5 pm.
There are two albergues for pilgrims in Santo Domingo. One had an Internet connection and self-service laundry in a building in front.
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