Fiumicino (FCO) to Termini on the Leonardo Express

OF COURSE we are going to take a train from the airport into town!  We aren't chickens and did fine in Paris, where my French was as bad as my Italian...  We also did well in Madrid at the start of the Camino, getting from the airport to the train station on the metro.  It was when we took a taxi that we didn't do so well.  Can't trust those guys.  We might take a taxi going back to the airport because then there will be 3 of us.

Ron in Rome has step by step instructions for getting to the trains at Fiumicino Airport from Terminal 3, where he says that most US flights arrive.  He also has step by step instructions for getting through baggage claim and passport control but I'm hoping we'll have our luggage with us, which should save us a half hour or more, unless they take it away from us on the flight to Philly.

Here's Ron's map of Terminal 3 and the tube that goes to the trains (yellow/blue arrow).  He says there are signs all over so we can't miss it. 

"Upon arrival, look for the signs to Train Station – the route is well marked. If you’re arriving through Terminal 3 – as most flights do – then you’ll exit through the frosted doors and turn right. You will walk through the lower level of the Terminal 3 Arrivals Area until you come to the first escalators you see – on your left. You’ll see the “To the Train Station” signs directing you to go down the escalators. You’ll go down under the road, and then up escalators to the train station."

We'll be taking the Leonardo Express because that's the train that goes into Termini.  The less expensive Regionale doesn't go there.  Ron says it's very easy to buy the tickets at the train ticketing windows (biglietteria), at tabaccherie in the airport and at the kiosks.  The Leonardo Express leaves every half hour at 8 minutes and 38 minutes past the hour (so 10:08, 10:38, 11:08, 11:38) and it takes 32 minutes to arrive at Termini.  The cost is €14 per person.

Although it is first class travel, there are no assigned seats so rush in and pick one quick.  We'll hope that all the other Americans arriving early Sunday morning will be taking taxis.   Oh, but WAIT!!  You say you forgot to validate your ticket??!!  Get off, get off and go do it now!!  At one of those little yellow machines on the platform, so the train police don't catch you and fine you €100 on the spot.  "Make sure the machine “clicks” when you insert your ticket… and make sure a time stamp prints out ON your ticket."  And hurry up because your ticket is only good for 90 minutes. 

Oh wait.  He says FCO will have introduced a new system by now which is like the Metro entry system that validates the ticket as you go through.  Shucks.  I was hoping to get some practice using those yellow validating machines, which are now green and white in some places.  In the meantime I'll practice watching this YouTube video.

Ron says: "The Leonardo Express usually arrives on track 2 (the middle track) at the FCO train station. You’ll see the logo, the red, white, and green coloring, and name on the side of the train. Once the train has been emptied the entry doors will be unlocked. If a door is not open, just push the round button to open it. Again, as all seats are considered first-class, and it’s open seating, sit wherever you can."

Ron says the Leonardo Express now arrives at Track 24 in Termini, Binario 24 in Italian, abbreviated Bin on the overhead monitors.  Binario 24 appears to be in the northwest corner of Termini, according to the map, so it will be very convenient for us, if that is indeed where it stops. 

Ron also says to be sure to collect ALL your luggage when you get off, but we will try to travel light.  Rick Steves has a suggested packing list at the back of his Rome guide:

1. 5 shirts, long and short-sleeved
2. 1 sweater or lightweight fleece
3. 2 pairs pants
4. 1 pair shorts
5. 1 swimsuit
6. 5 pairs underwear and socks
7. 1 pair shoes
8. 1 rainproof jacket with hood
9. tie or scarf

We'll have to adjust that for winter, replacing the shorts and swimsuit with a heavier jacket.  But what if the shoes get wet?  Are two pairs of pants really enough?  And what's he wearing to bed??

Termini

North end of Termini train station.  In the background are the domes of Santa Maria Maggiore and the bell tower of Santa Prassede

I was just telling Penny we could do all our shopping in Rome's Termini train station.  They have a Sapori and Dintorni CONAD supermarket underground and a COIN department store on the "platform" level.  Most of the stores on the Platform (0) level are congregated at the northern end, under the famous curving roof, which they have filled up fairly well.  They even have a McDonald's, but no Starbucks yet.

You can read about the history of Termini -- named after the Baths (termini) of Diocletian, rather than meaning "terminal" -- on the Italian government's GrandiStazioni website.  The current links to the various stations go to the new commercial websites listing all the shopping opportunities, but the events are horribly out of date.  Termini will be our local mall, which is open every day of the week from 8am to 10pm, in case we need anything on Sunday.  Regular shops in Rome keep much more restricted hours.  Ron in Rome says Termini has a GREAT Conad grocery store.  He also says to keep your wits about you since it moves half a million people a day.

Next I'll post some notes on how to get here from the airport...