Camino Day 9, Sunday 5/6/07: Los Arcos to Viana

This morning we got off at 7 am, mainly because there was no place in town to have cafe con leche with croissants. The bar behind the gas station near the hotel that normally opens at 7:30 am on weekdays was closed (it was Sunday). So we started out without breakfast. On the way, we met a Canadian couple from Toronto and walked with them a spell. But they walk faster than we do, especially faster than Fernando who is even slower now that his toenails are turning blue and falling off. It is hard for him to go down hills because his toe jams against the end of the shoe. And today there were lots of subir y bajar- so much that we walked on the N111 highway for part of the route. But so many motorcycles were using it as a speedway that we went back to the camino. It was only muddy in spots but very uneven and rocky so that you had to pay attention to your every step.
The countryside was drier and scrubbier and not as pretty as yesterday so I took very few photos. The towns are few and nondescript - perhaps because it was Sunday and nothing was open. Eventhough it was 19 kilometers from Los Arcos to Viana, it somehow seemed shorter than the previous day, which was easier walking. We arrived at 1 pm (6 hours walking) and then I couldn't find the address of Juani, the woman who lets out rooms in her house. It was on a little piece of paper and quite like any other little piece of paper. I think Fernando actually wanted to stay in the albergue - they are much cheaper (5 euros) and not bad at all. And the people are interesting and educated.

However, I managed to locate the paper and then we asked a man about the location. He said it was way beyond the Transversal. But I stopped by the Navarran tourist office in the main square which was open, got a map of the town and found that Juani's was only 2 blocks away.
Viana was celebrating Mother's day and everyone was out, including a little band that Fernando ran after (yes, even with his bad toes) trying to take pictures of.

"23 Medio de San Juan" was gehind one of the large old doors with a "mano de fatima" door knocker. Juani greeted us with smiles and enthusiasm so right away we felt welcome.

The room she took us to was at the back and opened out onto the street behind from the second floor (it was on the first floor on Medio de San Juan). The room was long and skinny with old wood floors and a little balcony. Kind of funky but charming. We share a bath across the hall.

We had the menu del dia next door at the Bar Pitu - cordero, judias verdes, and flan. Fernando had the ensalada mixta and arroz con leche. Naturally we mixed the wine with "gaseosa" and finished the bottle.
Then time to take a bath and a siesta (or did we take a bath before lunch?) After walking 6 hours it feels so good to lie down. And I like the Spanish idea of two single beds instead of a double.

After our nap we walked over to the albergue to use the Internet and get phone reception so we could call Mother, Willy, Juan and Camila. The phone has not had service except in large towns.

The albergue seemed nice. They had a mud room for the boots. Perhaps they did not allow people in with muddy feet. And of course the pilgrims did their laundry as did we. Fernando took a little tour and took a bunch of photos of the town.

Tomorrow we will take a bus to Logroño where we will stay two nights and experience the "tapas" bars on Calle Laurel. On Wednesday we will take a bus to Santo Domingo de la Calzada and then on Thursday to Burgos.