Monday, January 27, 2020

The Amazon!

Since we'll be doing the Amazon trip before Machu Picchu perhaps I should concentrate on that first.  I'm reading one of OAT's recommended books:  Life in the Treetops, Adventures of a Woman in Field Biology by Margaret D. Lowman.  It is my kind of biography:  only 214 pages and no footnotes to speak of, although my inner child would have liked more photos and  illustrations.  I'm reading it to prepare myself for the Canopy Walk which is on Day 6 of the trip:  We take an early morning boat trip to the somewhat primitive ExplorNapo Lodge where we have breakfast and then hike for about an hour to the Amazon Conservatory for Tropical Studies (ACTS) and to the Canopy Walkway, a system of aerial platforms and cableways more than 1,500 feet long, the longest treetop walkway in the world.

Canopy Walkway
Meg Lowman is one of the advisors for the Canopy Walkway and you can learn more about the canopy in this Scientific American video.  Each July Meg Lowman takes a group of Citizen Scientists on an Amazon workshop in the Explorama Lodges to help her do research in the canopy, in case you'd rather sign up for that instead of the OAT trip.  But some of the nights are spent at the more rustic ExplorNapo Lodge and ACTS campsite.

Explorama Lodge

Fortunately we are staying at the more civilized Explorama Lodge (with flush toilets and running water) and then the Ceiba Tops resort (hot water and air conditioning), if things go as planned.  I hope they don't change the accommodations at the last minute.  Exporama has a video about its lodges and the related activities that is fairly informative and pretty much covers everything OAT has in its brochure.  Google Maps also has a lot of photos of each lodge.  Don't expect the Hilton and do expect high humidity.


Here's a map of where the various lodges are located relative to Iquitos.  If you look them up on Google Maps, there's just a lot of green and no roads.



Saturday, January 18, 2020

Lima's Food Scene

Appetizer at Central
The New York Times has chosen Lima, Peru as one of its 52 Travel Destinations for 2020, citing its extraordinary food, so it is good that we are going to have a couple days to visit, although I don't think we can afford to eat at Central (where we could have a 17 course tasting menu for $130) or Maido which is Nikkei cuisine (Japanese-Peruvian) so you know it will be expensive. We have a day in Lima at the beginning of each trip (the Amazon and then Machu Picchu), probably to wait for tour members to arrive.  On each of these days we have the morning free, then meet up with our guide and other tour group members to have a Peruvian lunch and an orientation walk in Miraflores.  Then we have the rest of the afternoon and evening free and need to find our own restaurant for dinner.  We also have a day in Lima to visit the National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History in the colonial center but have to find our own lunch and then have the afternoon free.  I'm doing research so that we know where to go, what to order and what we can afford.  Peru has its own vocabulary for its dishes so I'm going to keep a glossary of terms on my iPhone.

The Culinary Institute of America has short (2-3 minute) YouTube videos on Peruvian food.  So here's a culinary lesson and a nice overview of Peruvian food and what we can expect.

Peru Part 1: Exploring Peru: Land of Contrasts and Crossroads
Peru Part 2: Peru's Kitchen, Where Cultures Merge
Peru Part 3: Dining in Lima, Peru, from Humble to Haute
Peru Part 4: Where Ceviche was Born
Peru Part 5: Causa, An Exercise in Creativity
Peru Part 6: Anticuchos, Peru's Favorite Street Food
Peru Part 7: Pisco
Peru Part 8: Peru's Influences from China and Japan
Peru Part 9: Culinary Treasures of the Amazon (most of the sound track is missing)
Peru Part 10: Cooking in the Peruvian Andes
Peru Part 11: Pachamanca, a Peruvian Harvest Feast

I also unearthed a Peruvian cookbook that Fernando brought back for me ten years ago:  Cocina Peruana:  nuestro sabor para el mundo, a collection of contemporary recipes from various restaurants.  Ten years ago I probably felt the chefs had taken too many liberties with traditional dishes but there still is a thread of Peruviness running through the dishes.  The recipes in the book are from restaurants in Lima, some of which are near our hotel:
Segundo Muelle (in San Isidro)
José Antonio
Brujas de Cachiche (about 10 blocks from the hotel)
El Señorío de Sulco
Huaca Pucllana Restaurante (by the archeological site of Huaca Pucllana which I would like to see).
Unfortunately I don't think we can afford to eat at any of these either: they have tablecloths and require reservations, but I'm sure we can do just fine at more modest establishments like the ones below.  And we can always just have a gelato for dinner at Gelato Mío a few doors down from the Casa Andina hotel.  Or we could go out for pastries at Pasteleria San Antonio or for wood-fired rotisserie chicken at Villa Chicken.

Sangrecita
But back to Peruvian specialties.  For an introduction to the various dishes we may encounter, read the Wikipedia article on Peruvian Cuisine.  Reviewing the menu at La Vaquita, I can see that I'm going to have to find translations for some of the dinner entrées:  Entraña (skirt steak), Picaña (sirloin cap or rump cap), Anticucho (beef heart kebabs), Panceta (pork belly).  Also for the breakfast items: untables (spreads like butter), choripan (chorizo in a bun), Peruanos (a sandwich of pork and fried sweet potato that is a breakfast staple).  Fernando will want to try the Sangrecita (made with chicken blood) and the Relleno (made with pork blood).

Tamalitos verdes piuranos
Del Mar has Tamalitos verdes piuranos which are a special unfilled green tamal made with fresh corn and cilantro (culantro) from the northern region of Piura.  Also Choritos a la Chalaca, mussels with a relish on top.  And of course, variations on that national potato dish, causa, with seafood.
Panchita (with $$$ and no prices on the menu) has a fiesta del tamal for a piqueo (starter) that offers 5 different tamales:  Corn tamal, creole maize filled with pork, cilantro tamal filled with cheese, Marthita quinoa tamal, and artichoke tamal; served with salsa criolla.  Panchita also has a selection of "platos criollos de toda la vida" among which is one that Fernando should really like, called the "classico":  Sabroso dúo de cau cau y sangrecita con yuca y sarza.   That is tripe soup and chicken blood rice with yuca and salsa criolla.

Salsa Criolla
Salsa criolla or sarza criolla, by the way, appears all over the place in Lima.  It is a fresh relish with red onions, fresh chile, cilantro and lime and its spiciness depends on the chile pepper and the maker.  They serve it with tamales, on top of sanguches, along side tacu-tacu (leftover rice and beans mixed together and fried into a patty and then topped with steak and a fried egg).  I hope the Peruvian red onions are milder than the ones I find in MY supermarket...

In any case, this is just the tip of the iceberg of Peruvian food and I haven't even explored that national raw fish dish:  ceviche (or cebiche as you will often find it written).  I read somewhere that before the Spaniards brought limes to the New World, the indigenous peoples would use fermented passion fruit (curuba) juice instead.  That sounds even better to me.

Wednesday, January 15, 2020

Peruvian Fast Food

Like looking for different flavors of potato chips, we need to discover what kind of fast food concoctions the Limeños have come up with.

Peruano at El Chinito
For instance, we could go to Sanguchería El Chinito,  a few blocks northeast of the hotel. It has  "Los más ricos chicharrones y sánguches tradicionales de Lima".  Sanguches??  I think they mean "sandwiches"...  And it is not "chinito" as in a little boy but "chinito" as in Chinese so you can get sandwiches with Pollito Pekín and cha siu.  Chicharrones in Peru are not pork cracklings but a meatier pork belly. A Peruano is a sanguche with pork belly, sweet potato, and an onion relish.  They also have chicken and pork (chanchito) tamales.  Worth checking out...
There's a lot of influence from the Chinese.  Chinese restaurants are chifas.   Arroz Chaufa is Peruvian stir-fried rice.  Lomo Saltado is a Peruvian stir-fry with beef and soy sauce but also with tomatoes, peppers, onions, cilantro and French fries, served over rice.

Chicharrón with camote and salsa criolla
Travel and Leisure Magazine has a review of La Lucha Sanguchería, a location of which is about 5 blocks northwest  of our hotel in Miraflores.  The New York Times 36 Hours in Lima, Peru also featured this sanguchería that uses "algarrobo wood to grill meats and native huayro potatoes to make thick-cut fries."  The sanguches also come with a variety of dipping sauces.  Although the sanguches at El Chinito look a bit more tempting with more of the fresh relish on top, I'd like to try those huayro potato fries.  Peru has lots of different kinds of potatoes but some are really different tubers not part of the potato family, like oca, hibias and cubios, and the camote (sweet potato).

Fast food at Salchipapería
Chorizo and frankfurters seem to be a big favorite (as in choripan).  At the left are some selections from La Salchipapería where hot dogs are served with french fries (salchipapas).  Evidently dishes "a la pobre" come with a fried egg on top (and sometimes a couple of strips of fried platano).  You can get a fried egg sanguche for only 2.50 soles or 75¢.  La Salchipapería also serves almuerzos (lunches) from 11am -5pm and these are more traditional Latin meals with rice, most of which are 12.90 soles ($3.88), a pretty cheap meal.  You can choose from Pollo a las Finas Hierbas, Salchichaufa Clásico (fried rice with frankfurters), Pollo Saltado (stir-fried chicken), Lomo Saltado (the classic Peruvian beef-stir-fry with french fries and rice), Mostrito (a combination of fried rice, french fries and fried chicken - pollo broaster), and Chaufa con lomo (a combination of fried rice, french fries and stir-fried beef).  With all that fried food, what's not to like?

UPDATE:  If you want to see what Peruvian Comida Rapida (fast food) looks like, check out this video by a Peruvian/Canadian couple that go to eat 1) sandwiches at Lucha Sanguchería, 2) Pollo a la brasa at Pardo's Chicken, and 3) Peruvian hamburgers at Bembo's.  It is in Spanish and the subtitles are laughable but hopefully you can understand some of it.

Saturday, January 11, 2020

Real Affordable Peru (RAP) - Updated

Penny has convinced us we need to make a trip to Machu Picchu with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT).   OAT also offers an optional pre-trip 6-day excursion to the Amazons, where I really need to go before I die.  I married Fernando expecting we'd spend time in the Amazons with his revolutionary priest and we still haven't been there.  Here's the Travel Planning Guide to Real Affordable Peru (RAP) from OAT with the day-by-day itinerary.  As usual, I need to add more links with more information for each day's excursion but right now I've got to figure out how much time we have in Lima, what OAT is taking us to, and what we don't want to miss.

Amazon Pre-Trip excursion.
Day 1: Flight from US. (9/21)
This day doesn't count since it is only the flight from the US to Lima and our flight doesn't get into Lima until 11:40 at night.  Some people might be up for carousing at a nightclub but not us...
UPDATE:  We changed our flights so that we are flying with Penny and get in earlier, at 9:35 pm (God willing).

Day 2: Lima (9/22)
We stay at the José Antonio Lima Hotel in Miraflores, a chic shopping district.  Unfortunately it is not a beach-front hotel (the beach is reserved for the Circuito).  Its breakfast buffet looks ok but I didn't see any Peruvian specialties in the photos.
UPDATE:  We are staying about 6 blocks northeast in the Casa Andina Select Miraflores.  I think their breakfast buffet looks better.
In the morning, if we can drag ourselves out of bed early enough, we can explore the area by ourselves, then our guide takes us to lunch at a local Peruvian restaurant, followed by a stroll down Larco Avenue, the neighborhood’s main street to Parque De Amor overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Afterwards we have the rest of the afternoon to explore and find a restaurant on our own for dinner, which reminds me I need to find out the exchange rate (1 sol equals 30¢ so a 50 sol plate (the cheapest) at Brujas de Cachiche would be $15).

Day3: Flight to Iquitos & Boat to Lodge (9/23)
Day 4: Yagua Village (9/24)
Day 5: Yanamono Clinic (9/25)
Day 6: Rain Forest Canopy Walk, Medicinal Gardens (9/26)
Day 7/Day 1: Birdwatching walk, boat to Iquitos, Flight to Lima (9/27)
Arriving in Lima is considered Day 1 of the Machu Picchu trip

Day 2 Lima • Discover Miraflores district (9/28)
UPDATE:  We are again at the Casa Andina Select Miraflores with a free morning, meeting with our guide for a Peruvian lunch, going on an orientation walk in Miraflores, a free late afternoon and dinner on our own.

Day 3 - Explore Colonial Lima (9/29)
Guided tour of the National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History at Bolivar Square and then a walk through the colonial streets in the morning.  Lunch is on our own and so is the afternoon until we meet back up for a Welcome Dinner with the group.

Day 4 - Fly to Cuzco • Explore Sacred Valley of the Incas and Pisac Ruins (Cuzco) (9/30)
Day 5 - Raft the Urubamba River (Urubamba) (10/1)
Day 6 - Train ride through the Sacred Valley • First Visit to Machu Picchu (Aguas Calientes) 10/2
Day 7 - Second visit to Machu Picchu (Aguas Calientes) (10/3)
Day 8 - Train ride through the Sacred Valley • Explore colonial Cuzco (10/4)
Day 9 - Discover Izcuchaca • A Day in the Life of Chinchero village (Cuzco) (10/5)
Day 10 - Southern Valley of Cuzco • Sacsayhuaman & Kenko (Cuzco) (10/6)
Day11 - Fly from Cuzco to Lima   (10/7) UPDATE:  Now on a flight to US leaving at 10:55 pm
10/8 - Return to U.S.  

So, as you can see, we really don't have much time in Lima and it is broken up.  So we have to choose what to see carefully, or we could just wander the streets, which is also a great way to know a city.  I just have to figure out when I can get to a mercado.

Tuesday, February 5, 2019

Algonquin Provincial Park

I've already mentioned two YouTube videos about the park, one from the Friends of Algonquin Park and another by Ontario Parks.  But here is a less official video taken by RV Lifestyle, an older RV couple from Detroit who drive up to Algonquin Park for an RV road trekker get-together.   Two takeaways from their trip are the logging museum because there is an interpretive trail that shows how the loggers lived.  You can watch its 15 minute video The Loggers of Algonquin Park ahead of time so the kids don't have to sit through it.  It is well done and informative.  And second, it hadn't occurred to me how little light pollution there would be that far north so that we'll be able to see the Milky Way.   I'll even buy Milky Way Midnight Dark candy bars for the occasion.


By the way, our RV friends mention that late summer and early fall is a better time to go because of the bugs.

Monday, February 4, 2019

Civic Holiday or the August Long Weekend

We hit the jackpot!  We'll be starting our vacation week in Canada during their August long weekend which marks the halfway point in summer and which is called by different names in different provinces and cities.  One website said:   "It is probably the busiest day on highways as tens of thousands of families go camping, to cottages etc this weekend."  But there are no events scheduled in Algonquin Park for those days as of yet, so maybe it really isn't that "national"?  We can check their Events Calendar later on to see if that changes.

On the other hand, Muskoka is already planning for it:  Discover Muskoka August Long Weekend Events.   Will will be happy to know that they typically have a Session Muskoka Craft Beer Festival.   The information on the website is for last year but I assume it will eventually be updated.  Session Muskoka is held in Bracebridge, about half an hour south of Menominee Lake.

Another event for Will -- who can take Isabel along this time -- is TreeTop Trekking in Huntsville.  Unfortunately you have to be 9 years old so the boys are too young.  Such a disappointment.

There is a Santa's Village Theme Park near Bracebridge but it looks like it's for younger kids and the general admission is $37.95.  We could almost buy 2 youth kayaks for what it would cost for a family of 4.  There are also fireworks the night of Monday at Gravenhurst, at the tip of Muskoka Lake.

For Jen there is a Muskoka Lakes Farm and Winery where they harvest cranberries, make cider from apples and cranberries, and make wine from cranberries and blueberries.  It's about an hour away to the west.  We could drop Will off at the craft beer festival and drive on to the winery, skirting around lots of lakes.  All I can say is that by the end of this trip we should have our fill of water and should be ready for a desert vacation!  Hm.  Maybe it is time to buy some kayaks for the kids.


Menominee Lake Here We Come

We've bitten the bullet and reserved an AirBnB in Canada on Menominee Lake about 7 hours north of Pittsburgh.  It's about 6 kilometers north of Baysville and 19 kilometers south of Huntsville in an area pockmarked with hundreds of little lakes.  It's about 140 miles north of Toronto and around 100 miles northeast of Collingwood which is on the Georgian Bay.  (That's where my grandmother was born.)


That's Toronto at the bottom of the map covered up by a bunch of stars and the Google logo.

Three fourths of the family is going to make it:  the two of us, Camila's family and Will's family.  Juan is using up his vacation and money on the Disney Cruise as we speak, which sounds pretty good to me at the moment.  We're going to Canada instead of the Outer Banks this year and the weather should be significantly different.  With all those little lakes and ponds I hope there aren't too many mosquitos but I've got two bottles of Off with DEET left over from our Punta Cana vacation last year.  I never used it once there so hopefully it will continue to be unused this summer.

We hope to get to Algonquin Provincial Park, the original destination of this trip.  The Friends of Algonquin Park video traces the geological formation, prehistory and history of the park.  Highway #60 runs for 56 kilometers through the lower half of the park and provides camping sites, interpretive walkways, a museum and visitor center.  For more information on the recreational offerings, watch the Ontario Parks video.  The rest of the park can only be accessed on foot or by canoe.  The west entrance to the park is about 42 minutes (48 kilometers) from our AirBnB but the Visitor's Center is near the eastern entrance about an hour and 15 minutes (94 km).  Google Maps gives Canadian distances in kilometers and although you can change that to miles in the Options, I figure we might as well get used to them.  It's easy to convert from kilometers to miles:  you just multiply by 6 and move the decimal point one place to the left.  So 100 kilometers would be 60 miles.

By the way, Isabel says she has dibs on the top bunk:





Saturday, January 19, 2019

Grandma's Recipes

Using okara to stuff fish
I am always amazed at how many videos there are on Japanese culture and how YouTube has become a platform for them.  My latest discovery is a series of small vignettes called Grandma's Recipes by Yu Nakamura about disappearing recipes from rural Japan that are kept alive by old women.  The videographer explains what they are doing this way.
"Our team especially tries to focus on eccentric, lovely but “Rock” ladies above the age of 80, who have lived through World War Two. We interview them with great care, and through their recipes which represents the relationships they share with those they care about, we are able to uncover great depth in their life stories. We want to spread those stories to the young generations living today. We believe that if we can share the stories of those beautiful and loving ladies to the world, regardless of borders and languages, people may appreciate even the dinner table just a little bit more."
"There are many grandmas over the age of 80 who have collected many "wrinkles" of joy throughout the years.  We collect those "wrinkles" in the form of their favorite recipes and we try to understand the depth of their life stories." 
The photography is beautiful even if you don't want to try the recipes, the majority of which seem to be Osechi, New Year's dishes.


  • Sansai (Wild Vegetables, picked in Spring)
  • Grandma Mitsuko from Haida making whole fish sushi.
  • Tatsuko - san, a shoyu-maker from Fukui, making a soup for New Year's
  • Osechi made by Keiko oba-chan in Tokyo, nishiki eggs and other dishes
  • Teacher Tsunko on Noto Island making cod for "Kishu-sai", the festival of fishery.

Monday, September 3, 2018

Down Fulham Road

As far as I can tell, there's no reason to walk the half mile down Fulham Road to the Fulham Broadway Centre.  There are few sites to see along the route except for the Brompton Cemetery and the Chelsea Football stadium (Stamford Bridge).  It's very residential so we might as well take the #211 bus (Hammersmith) or the #14 bus (Putney Heath) that stops in front of the house (stop HB) down to the Fulham Broadway Station (Stop M).  Either bus will get us there in 5 minutes.  Of course it will set us back £1.50.


The Fulham Broadway Centre is a shopping mall with a Sainsbury Superstore (M-Sat 7 am to 11 pm; Sun 12-6) and a Wilko hardware store (they only have 14,000 items, not 55,000 like Farmer Brothers).  You can check out Sainsbury's groceries online.  I'd like to pick up some Seville orange marmalade to go with our morning crumpets and some tea, depending on what they have in the house.  Do you think we can survive without coffee?

Oh, but look!  Sainsbury's also has lots of packaged scones and even a Paul Hollywood famous scone mix!  I think I'd rather buy my scones fresh from a bakery but perhaps Fernando would like to try his hand at baking them.  We'll also need some clotted cream to go along with the scones and Sainsbury's carries clotted cream from Rodda's of Scorrier, Redruth, Cornwall.  And we should have some jam other than marmalade to go along with the scones.  I'm making my shopping list already.

I figure we can get some sausages for bangers and mash for one of our breakfasts but I really don't like the consistency of the fillers in bangers so maybe just some regular sausages.  But then this "bangers and mash pouch" came up in a search.  Shall I bring one home for Louise?  They also have an Organic Lamb & Chickpea Tagine with Prune & Cous Cous and advise: Do not allow your baby to suck food directly from the pouch in order to properly develop feeding skills.  Wasn't the suckable pouch the point?  To keep them happy and quiet in the car or stroller?

I'd also like to pick up some gin for Penny.  Or how about Ceders Distilled Non-Alcoholic Gin?  Made with classic gin and rare cape botanicals.  Is this what is left over after distilling out the alcohol?
Or perhaps Sainsbury's Blackfriars Gin, "Taste the Difference" (Sainsbury's slogan) that is "suitable for vegans". And did you know that Hendrick's is "Best enjoyed, from glass or teacup, as a most enchanting Hendrick's and Tonic - served with plenty of ice and three slices of cucumber."   From a teacup?  Like for breakfast?

My goodness!  I better get out of the supermarket or we'll spend all day here!  Plus there's a Whole Foods just down the road...  There are a lot of small fast food chain restaurants and a Starbucks in the Fulham Broadway Centre as well in case we need a quick bite to eat: Nando's, Prêt à Manger, Pizza Express, Yard Sale Pizza, Oyster Rooms pub.  But perhaps the restaurants on the street would be more interesting.  Just past Whole Foods on the left,  there's a German Doner Kebab takeout followed by a French gelateria Amorino, and a restaurant supply store (Nisbets).  There are quite a few chicken and pizza takeaway shops.   On a side street,  Jerdan Place, there's a French chain restaurant (Côte Brasserie) with set and a la carte menus and further down Fulham Road is a Turkish restaurant, Best Mangal.  If you are homesick, you can walk up North End Road for a KFC and McDonald's or up Walham Grove for a Papa John's Pizza and a Ben and Jerry's.

I'm assuming we want something more British so just half a block up North End Road from Fulham Road is Waitrose, a supermarket specializing in British products and right now featuring the current season of the Great British Bakeoff (Paul Hollywood is the only host left from the original 4).  They also have a better selection of craft gins and porridge.  Fernando could get a kilo of porridge oats for £1.39!  That should keep him well stocked!  Maybe we should go here for our marmalade, clotted cream, and tea.  Next door to Waitrose on North End Road is the Mountain Warehouse where I might be able to pick up a walking pole for the Road Scholar program.

North End Road seems to be the shopping street in Fulham and Google Street View shows a street market.  In fact on September 22 there's going to be a traffic free Autumn Market there.  Too bad we'll miss it but there's a regular North End Road Market Monday to Saturday, from 8am to 6pm so it's something we could explore the Friday we get there!

And finally, at 314-18 North End Road, there is a PoundLand, right next door to McDonald's.  Apparently there is no bus service up North End Road so we'd have to stroll up on foot, checking out all the shops in between.  Poor Fernando.




Saturday, September 1, 2018

Up Fulham Road

Our house at 413 Fulham Road
Apparently I haven't gone exploring Fulham Road with the Google street view on my London map.  I spent much more time doing that for our Paris trip and for our Hong Kong trip in 2010 (street view became available for Hong Kong a few months before).  Perhaps I've been distracted by all the menus now available for pubs and restaurants and by all the YouTube videos.  Heck, these days you can really be an armchair traveler.

Sainsbury Local convenience store
The block that our apartment is on (400s) seems to be the sole surviving block of houses, the surrounding area having been taken over by commercial establishments.  We are on the corner with a signal for crossing the street and a painted reminder on the pavement to "look left" while crossing the street.  If we keep our eyes peeled to the ground, these advisories should help us survive the London traffic.  There's a Sainsbury's Local directly across the street but it was closed at the early hour that the Google mobile took its photo.

Across Fulham Road and up half a block on the one-way cross street, Edith Grove, is the HK Bus Stop for the #328 which will take us south to Kings Road.  Across the street and to the left half a block down Fulham Road is the HE Bus Stop for the #14 bus that will take us east to the South Kensington tube station (Old Brompton Road).  We couldn't be better situated for buses, which will take us to the nearest tube stations: Earls Court (.7 miles north), Fulham Broadway (.6 miles west), and South Kensington (.9 miles northeast).  There's also the HB Bus Stop in front of the house for the #14 returning from South Kensington (catch it at Stop T) which runs every 6 minutes and takes 10 minutes.

If we walk up Fulham Road towards the city, we come to Westminster Chelsea Hospital but we hope we won't have to use it.  Across the street is a Boots pharmacy in case we need ibuprofen and bath salts for our feet.  The hospital has a storefront Subway sandwich shop in case we get really desperate before 10 pm and next door is a Starbucks in case we get tired of tea.  Across the street is the B Bagel Bakery Bar which opens at 7 am every morning and further east half a block is Le Pain Quotidien, which seems more like a restaurant than a bakery.  Apparently it does have bread but it doesn't open until 8 am.  And next door is the "Touch Ironmongery" if you need some brass fixtures.

Moving up the street we find Luigi's delicatessen (M-F 8-21:30; Sat 9-7) where we can pick up some spaghetti to boil for dinner or splurge on fresh pasta or ready-made gnocchi alla Sorrentina.  We can also get panettone for our breakfast or afternoon tea.  It is probably too early in the year for the novello vinos and we'll have to get their cannolis when they are freshly made and filled.




Further up the road is Gail's Bakery, which opens at 7 am, with more than 30 breads on offer.  We'll have to check it out even if it is a chain.  Their malted whole grain sourdough bread looks and sounds good and so does their Danish whole meal spelt sourdough.  They even have San Francisco sourdough but they need 48 hours notice -- to fly it in, I suppose.  I see croissants, Chelsea buns, Soho buns (with chocolate chips), pain aux raisins, and finally at the very bottom of the breakfast menu, some drop scones.  Oh silly me.  I should have looked on the Afternoon dropdown for the scones, being as they are for afternoon tea.  Lots of other options there too for creating our own tea party.  Who needs restaurants?

And, in case we are lacking protein,  next door to Gail's Bakery is Wyndham House Butchery which offers fine meats, poultry and game,  opening up at 7:30 am M-Sat (till 6 pm).  If you don't want to cook, you can cross the street to The Kings Arms pub and have an obscene burger since it is a Younge's "burger shack".  They never call them hamburgers, just "burgers" but to their credit they do offer a lamb burger and a veggie burger.  By the way, numbers on the north side of the street don't coincide with the ones on the south side (190 vs 341) but at least they both go up as they go down Fulham.

Moving on east on Fulham we come across another "ironmongery," FB and JD Beardmore, offering the "finest English-made door furniture".  So if you or anyone you know needs door knockers or knobs, cabinet pulls or other "door furniture", you should stop in here and peruse their collection which is really very interesting and unique.
Next door is another "hardware" store, Farmer Brothers.
Established in 1842, Farmer Brothers has over 55,000 products in stock. Even staff at nearby Harrods, can be overheard saying "you'll find it at Farmers".  And it looks like Beardmore is part of their company.  How about a pair of toast tongs?  Or a wooden door wedge?  Or a kettle protector that reduces lime in your kettle for a fresher taste and more efficient boiling time?  A shoehorn with a back scratcher?  Who needs to go to a museum when you have a nearby hardware store?

And for us librarians, there is the independent Daunt Books across the street which is known for its large stock of travel literature, in case we forget our London guidebook.  It's open from 9 am till 9 pm.  For those who don't read, in the next block there's a Cineworld Cinema in a rather striking building along with another Starbucks to make sure that you don't fall asleep during the movie.  And Cineworld has a great deal:  Any film, any time and as many times as you like for just £20.40 a month.

All these stores to see and we haven't even gone half a mile from the house and in only one direction and only on one road!  On the other hand, it appears that, aside from the Orée patisserie, many of the stores beyond Elm Park Gardens are furniture and interior design shops and so of much less interest to us so it's time to head in the other direction down to Fulham Broadway.


Sunday, August 19, 2018

Getting around London by Bus

We are a bit outside the center in one of the old villages, Chelsea.  Of course, it’s not a village now, but it does mean we will learn how to get around greater London.  We are not that near any tube stations so let’s look at the bus.  And we can always hop on the bus and get off at the South Kensington tube station for the Central, District and Piccadilly lines.
I happen to have a Central London bus map...admittedly it’s from March 2009, but it allows me to see the larger picture, and I’ll supplement it with one of the apps I’ve downloaded for London.
Starting from 431 Fulham Road, traveling on Fulham Rd.
The 14 will take us up Fulham past the South Kensington museums, up Piccadilly to  Covent  Garden, then up Charing Cross and Tottenham Ct. to Euston Station.  Of course it might take a while...but the apps will tell us how long.  That route will take us to the S. Ken. Museums, Covent Garden, Bloomsbury and near the British Museum
The 414 parallels the 14 to Hyde Park Corner then veers north along Hyde Park.  We could take that up to Speaker’s Corner and the. Walk a bit east on Oxford to Selfridges for their food court.
The 211 will take us to Victoria Station and on to Westminster and across the Westminster Bridge, but, again, it may take a while.  From the end of that line we can walk 14 minutes to the Imperial War Museum.
Now if we walk southerly (0.2 mi) to King's Road we have even more bus choices:

The 11 looks like a really useful route.  It travels up King's Road, past Westminster Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Trafalgar Square, travels down the Strand, passes the Royal Courts of Justice, turns down Fleet Street into the City, past St. Paul's Cathedral and ends at Liverpool Station. 

Here is an article, "London's Top 3 Sightseeing Bus Routes," from VisitBritain. 
And, of course, we will use Transport of London's Plan a Journey all the time!


P.S.  We'll always be looking for double-decker buses and will try to ride on top in the front seat,  what Mitch called "the Terror Seat,"  don't ask me why because driving with him as a passenger in NYC was "the terror seat." 

But if you want to ride on one of the iconic Routemasters, here's an article for you.
  "The heritage number 15 service is a fantastic route for tourists as it passes by some of London's most iconic sites including St Paul's Cathedral and the Tower of London. It's a much cheaper alternative to some of the London bus tour companies. For the best views, grab a seat at the front upstairs. "
We can catch it at Trafalgar Square and ride to Tower Hill, and it runs every 15 minutes, seven days a week, between c. 9:30 am and 6:30 pm

Thursday, August 16, 2018

Quirky and Eccentric and the South Kensington Museums (Victoria and Albert Museum, Science Museum, Natural History)

 Nancy sent me a Apple News link to a story from BBC US:  Victoria and Albert Museum Tour of British Identity.
I watched the clip and thought it was a odd, limited choice of items, although I’ve since discovered there are more.  She responded that the British were quirky and eccentric.  Now, I thought that was probably a pretty dated description left over from times of independently wealthy, privately educated, upper class individuals.
Today as I read my daily Atlas Obscura posting I stumbled on a London Loves list by Angelalazenbury of 49 London sites that can really only be described as quirky and eccentric.
So I invite you to read and enjoy her list, and jot down ones you’d like to see.
Then, tell me are the British still quirky and eccentric?
P.S.  Also at the Victoria and Albert is a Frida Kahlo exhibit.  And here's a BBC article on that.  
There is probably a charge for that and other special exhibits, but otherwise the museum is free, so we can pop in and look at this and that.  The museum has been described thus, "Beautifully but haphazardly displayed across a seven mile, four storey maze of halls and corridors, the V and A's treasures are impossible to survey in a single visit."  Perhaps their new Photography Gallery will be open by then.  Here are some opinions of what to see there.  The V and A From the Collections.  TimeOut's Seven Wonders of the V and A.  And the Telegraph's How to Visit the Victoria and Albert.
We can easily get to the Victoria and Albert, and the adjacent Natural History Museum and the Science Museum by taking the 41 or 141 bus up Fulham.  Or we could walk, but I think we'd better save our strength.
The Science Museum is on Fernando's list and "it is undeniably impressive, filling seven floors with items drawn from every conceivable area of science, including space travel, telecommunications, time measurement, chemistry, computing, photography and medicine.  There are hands-on exhibits and an IMAX cinema, too.
Kids in the Wonderlab at the Science Museum





Is time for lunch, yet?  Let's wander across to Herrod's Food Hall with its exqusite Arts and Crafts tiling  We can probably get anything we want although it will be pricey, as is the entire establishment.  It's also a major tourist destination so don't expect to be alone.  Here's what Yelp says
We might also stop for coffee and...in the Victoria and Albert at the cafe in the room designed by William Morris.  Here's other suggestions for cheap places to eat near the South Kensington Museums.

Then has anyone the energy for a walk in Hyde Park?

.

Monday, July 23, 2018

Day trip to Cambridge

"Cambridge, 60 miles north of London, is world-famous for its prestigious university.  Wordsworth, Isaac Newton, Tennyson, Darwin, and Prince Charles are a few of its illustrious alumni.  The university dominates - and owns - most of Cambridge, a historic town of 100,000 people that's more pleasant than its rival Oxford.  Its the epitome of a university town, with busy bikers, stately residence halls, plenty of bookshops, and proud locals who can point out where DNA was originally modeled, the first atom was split, and electrons were initially discovered."
You'll have to excuse me for the above quote from Rick Steves, but he said it so well.  Now the Rick Steves London edition I own is 2008, so things may have changed a bit, so we'll have to verify things like timetables, and whether there are still plenty of bookshops.

Cambridge is an easy day trip.  We'll want to schedule a walking tour with the Cambridge Visitor Centre.  Ricky says that's an essential part of any visit and directs us to the Visit Cambridge website.  Surprise!  There isn't just one tour, but NINE!  Oh, but wait!  When I start selecting dates they don’t all appear.  I’m choosing Sunday, Sept. 16 because I would really, really like to hear evensong at 15:30 in Kings Chapel.

So, on that Sunday the first tour listed is Kings College and the Backs ( 2 hours/ 20 pounds) at 11 am

See the best that Cambridge has to offer in the company of an official Blue Badge Guide. This two-hour walking tour takes in some of the most famous city centre sights, with a specific focus on the magnificent 15th century King’s College and Chapel as well as the picturesque Cambridge Backs.

There is also a Cambridge Highlights Tour at 13:00 (90 minutes/12 pounds) which might even be better although I’d like an earlier hour.

This is the perfect tour for first-time visitors to Cambridge or those who are only here for a short time. See all the central, iconic sights in just 90 minutes: the Old Cavendish Laboratory where important scientific discoveries were made, the Corpus Clock, the Senate House and many of the beautiful central colleges* including Corpus Christi, King’s, Gonville & Caius and Trinity.

Official University and City Tour including King's College and Queens' College  (2 hours/ 23 pounds)

From the intimate courtyards of Queens’ College to the majestic beauty of King’s College Chapel, this 2-hour tour covers two very different royal Cambridge foundations.  Your route will meander through city streets and beautiful, riverside colleges, immersing you in the true Cambridge experience.
Any of these would be good although we should reserve before we go, and there appears to be lots of other things to do.
Here’s a list of 16 of the best things to  do in Cambridge, England from handluggageonly.co.uk
How about punting on the River Cam?  We can make a reservation for that, too, through the Visit Cambridge site.
But how do we get there?  Simple, take the train from King’s Cross.  Tripsavvy.comTripsavvy is happy to give us some options.  Looks like an off peak ticket is 17.20 pounds and it takes about an hour to get there.  And how do we get to Kings Cross?  My handy dandy London transit map says bus 414 and the Piccadilly line, and that takes about 45 minutes. 
 So, are you up for Cambridge?