Monday, December 20, 2010

Marchés Volants

I thought open air food markets (marché de plein air) and street markets were pretty much the same but Clotilde Dusoulier lists the marchés volants (roving markets - greenmarkets for which the vendors come in on specific days, set up their stands for a few hours, then pack up and leave). Many of these are later in the day than the street markets that they say run from 8:30 am to 1 pm. There are a lot of them and more as you get outside of the central arrondissements.

Another blog (Paris Connected) says: "Food markets are part of Parisian way of life, there are at least 69 outdoor and 13 indoor markets, and they’re all very popular. Sunday morning’s market is a social institution, and one the most famous is 'le marché d’Aligre', located in east center (between Bastille and Gare de Lyon)." A street market that is best Friday, Saturday or Sunday morning. This is where the Baron Rouge hangs out. "On the Aligre square stands a covered market, le marché Beauvau-Saint Antoine, a bit more expensive, but opening in the afternoon also, and offering many other products, like cheese, fish, meat, poultry, delicatessen, Italian food, selected olive oils and Caribbean dishes."

The Gridskipper also lists Markets for Late Risers or for those that work... And Discover France also has a market list with times and metro stop. And the Guardian has a list of the Best Paris Markets. And French Travel Tips also has a list of markets by arrondissements. We should look at the 10th and 11th arrondissements since there aren't many in the 4th arrondissement.

1st Arrondissement
Marché Raspail: "The most glamourous and the most expensive market on the Left Bank, where the celebrities do their shopping." BioOrganic. Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays. Boulevard Raspail entre les rues du Cherche-Midi et de Rennes. M° Saint-Placide, Rennes, Sèvres-Babylone

4th Arrondisement
Place Baudoyer Wednesday afternoon from 12:30pm to 8:30pm and Saturday morning from 7am to 3pm.

5th Arrondissement
Maubert in Place Maubert just across the Ile de Saint Louis on the Left Bank. Tues, Thurs, Sat 7 am-2:30 pm

11th Arrondissement
Marche Richard Lenoir (Bastille)
"Beginning beneath the famous monument at the Place de la Bastille, two long alleyways of tempting French gourmet products stretch for almost a kilometre. There are street entertainers and musicians, and stalls to hunt down include an irresistible wine seller, Eduard Mace, specialising in rare vintages, and Jacky Lorenzo, Paris's most famous fishmonger." Sunday and Thursday mornings. YouTube Video.

Marché Popincourt
Boulevard Richard-Lenoir, between rues Oberkampf et Jean-Pierre Timbaud
Tuesday and Friday from 7h à 14h30. Evidently it operates when the Bastille Market doesn't. Here's another blog that gushes over the cheese ladies there.
Métro : Oberkampf

19th Arrondissement
Marché Belleville-Ménilmontant
"No, the bobos [same as bohos?] have not gotten this far. At least not quite... Belleville & Ménilmontant undoubtedly remain the last real popular areas of Paris in the true sense of the term, a melting-pot where die-hard Parisian, second generation North Africans and Chinese cohabit most of the time in perfect harmony." This area also has a lot of artists.

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