What to Wear in Paris

My Dos and Don'ts list got so long I decided to split them up between behavior and dress.

Don't wear a fanny pack.
(That one's easy enough.) No backpack either.

Don't wear torn jeans and T-shirts
(another easy one).

Don't go out in your jogging clothes
No fleece pants and shirt to get the croissants in the morning. Always dress up.

Don't wear tennis shoes unless they are designer shoes.
I'm afraid my Keens will mark me right away as an American but I don't think I'll switch to stylish flats. On the other hand, maybe I should pick up some Keen boots. The brown one is my color: "potting soil", which is good since all the Frenchies have bought the black in my size.


Always wear a scarf except in August.
That's because in August all the Parisians have left and there are only tourists. We can pick up cheap scarves in the stands outside of Galleries Lafayette, although I've already bought myself two...

Don't wear a baseball cap.
Looks like I'll need to pick up one of these felt hats from Canotiers du Marais or from Chapellerie Julias. I understand that hats are back in style according to Paris Escapes and if you look at the Kenzo collection for autumn and winter, almost all of the models are wearing wonderful felt hats.


Wear neutral colors or black.
Paris Escapes says that in fall 2010 camel coats were back (they don't have spring up yet, small surprise) - maybe I should run out and get one of those instead of my red wool one. No, look! The Kenzo collection has a bright red coat. Yikes! does that mean I can't wear that rainbow scarf I just bought myself? No, look, they say "Color this season takes its inspiration from Paris' autumn hues - tans, light beiges, olives and rust-oranges. Mix this warm palette with the classic, neutral shades of gray and black. For a dash of color, pick up a belt, scarf, tights or purse in a 50s shade of fire-engine red." Too bad I bought a black leather purse instead of a red one. I wonder if Mother still has that big red leather purse she took to Europe in the 50s.

Be attuned to the French Fashion Scene
For instance, always check the pulse of these designers listed at Mode a Paris. Frankly, some of the stuff is really classy. Maybe we will have to walk the fashion boulevards and lick the windows. This is part of Kenzo's autumn/winter collection. But I could never handle the shoes.

E. Dehillerin and G. Detou

I did a previous post on the professional kitchenware store E. Dehillerin near the old Les Halles market site but now I'm reading The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz (which, by the way, is available in a Kindle edition) and he doesn't have such a positive view of the store. He thinks you'll end up buying things you won't ever use and recommends instead going to G. Detou (J'ai de tout) across the street on rue Etienne Marcel. You'll use everything at G. Detou because it is all edible, and it seems to have a lot of chocolate, candied fruits and Russian teas.

Here's his posting from 2007 on G. Detou in Paris, in which he describes all the lovely mustards (in a pail), sardines, hand-peeled fruits, honeys, sugars, cake decorations (the silver kind), spices. If that isn't enough information, here is a posting from Clotilde Dusoulier: The Magic Baker's Store. It's really too bad that I'm not much of a baker, but there's always the chance that this store will encourage me to change. On the other hand, maybe they can just recommend a nearby patisserie...

Only it appears that the store is really on rue Tiquetonne (what a lovely name). We might have to make a day of the old Les Halles neighborhood -- but didn't we initially want to stay on Rue Montorgueiul anyway? (And we can always sit Fernando down in a park with a can of sardines.)

Paris Souvenirs

Here are a few sites that can give us ideas so we'll have our eyes peeled for unique souvenirs.

Paris Escapes: Eight souvenirs under 20 euros
We don't want to forget to bring some gifts home. Besides the scarves ("Inside the Galleries Lafayette browse and determine what the styles/colors of the season are, then step outside and purchase a similar item from the vendors on the sidewalk.") and eiffel tower replicas they recommend café-ware from La Vaissellerie.

BootsNAll: Unique and Affordable Paris Souvenirs
They suggest 1-2 Euro canvas shopping bags from the boucherie. But do you think Fernando will let us pass up the pigs' snouts? Also Monoprix supermarket products and postcards from the Bouquinistes along the Seine (which might only be open on the weekends).

Girls Guide to Paris: Top 20 or More Items to Bring Back
These are premium items like Macaroons from Pierre Hermé and or Ladurée. But we do need to get a little beret for Isabel, although probably not a copper pot for Camila and Will...

WhyGo Paris: Finding Non-Touristy Souvenirs: Paris Travel Tip #14
"Find non-touristy souvenirs at Monoprix. Monoprix is Paris’s inexpensive grocery/department store where you can find such items as reasonably priced lingerie, clothes for kids, dish towels and some houseware/kitchen products – without breaking the piggy bank."

WhyGo Paris: Super Chic Paris Souvenirs for 20 Euros or Less!
Although I prefer the 5 euros or less category, here are some ideas for the chic people in our lives, like Laina and Camila. And they suggest the BHV for table linens.

French Souvenirs: Ideas for gifts and mementos
Cookware, food, knives from all over France.

HiP Paris Blog: Paris Souvenirs: What You Shouldn’t Leave France Without
Again this covers France in general but refers to her own experience in Paris which includes food and nivea cream, but also links to a posting on La Vaissellerie: Kitschy French Kitchen Supplies.

What to Eat/Do in Paris, What Not To Miss.

Here are some suggestions:

David Lebovitz has his list of 10 Insanely Delicious Things You Shouldn’t Miss in Paris - naturally they are all food, especially chocolates. And he pointed me to:

Dorrie Greenspan's list: The Paris Ten: Must-Tastes: baquettes, croissants, macarons, cheeses, ice cream, plateaux fruits de mar, crepes, steak-frites, croque monsieur et madame, champagne. Do you think we can hit them all?

Famous French food - simple is best
Like a Croque Monsieur? Sounds like something to make you choke...

12 things worth splurging on in Paris
This list is from EuroCheapo and all 12 look good to me.

Saint-Honoré Cake
"It consists of a pâte brisée base with a pâte a choux ring around the outside. Individual pâte a choux puffs are filled with pastry cream and dipped in caramel. They are then attached on top of the outside ring of the cake with more caramel to hold them in place." It sounds sticky but we don't have to eat it at Pierre Herme's.

Dos and Don'ts in Paris

I've run across so many admonitions about how to behave in Paris that I better jot them all down here so I can perpetually review them. God forbid we should look like American tourists!

1. Always say "Bonjour, Monsieur /Madame /Mademoiselle" upon entering a store and "Au Revoir, Monsieur /Madame /Mademoiselle" upon leaving.
2. Always say "S'il vous plait" and "merci".
3. Always keep your knife and fork in your hands and your wrists on the table when eating...
4. Don't touch the merchandise! (Ouch!)
5. Parlez francais.
6. Don't ask for any substitutions at a restaurant. Don't ask for vegetarian or lowfat options.
7. Don't ask for coffee during a meal.
8. Don't ask for café au lait but café creme. Better yet, take it black.
9. Don't pull out a map of Paris. (Use your iphone map instead...)
10. Don't wear a camera around your neck. (But phone cameras are so horrible!)

Don't talk too loudly in restaurants or other public places.
Don't cut the cheese wrong - don't cut the tip off the wedge...

Patisseries

I was looking at our google map of Paris and all the boulangeries and patisseries we have marked. I still haven't finished the Paris by Pastry book and pretty soon we'll only have 8 weeks till we leave and I haven't narrowed down our pastry choices. Not only do we have to choose the store but we have to make sure we don't forget to try quintessential Parisian pastries, like the pain au chocolat. Maybe EuroCheapo can help us: Paris Tip: The best tarte in town! I prefer fruit tarts anyway.

Google Street View

Perhaps you were perplexed by the reference to Google Street View in last entry and would like some tips on just how you can use it.  Well, here is a little video that will help and improve your language skills as well http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC3Hi1Wvzd4

Shopping

I'm browsing through Patricia Well's 1999 edition of The Food Lover's Guide to Paris, trying to verify whether the establishments she lists are still in business. One, Flo Prestige, a carry-out food shop, has apparently been absorbed recently by Fauchon, but many of the other ones still exist and even have websites (Cafe Verlet, Hediard). Most of the specialty food shops sound only like look-see locations and I think her guide is written for tourists in hotels since she doesn't have separate chapters for boucheries, triperies and charcuteries but only "prepared foods to go." Accommodations really must have changed in the last decade since one runs across SO many Paris apartments for rent now.

One of the more interesting places she mentions, Tantifla, a poissonnerie/epicierie Provencale, I cannot find. It was at 7 Rue Bretagne so I went to Google Map's street view and browsed the street, unsuccessfully. This is near the Marche des Enfants Rouges. You too should browse Google's street view of rue Bretagne just to see how quickly winter turns to spring in Paris!

In my verification process I also ran across EuroCheapo's blog posting on Paris: 6 favorite museum gift shops (with cheapo tips), in case we want a Parisian sailor outfit or a Rodin snow globe.

And Eurocheapo also has a recent introductory article on supermarkets: A guide to supermarkets in Paris (9/21/2010). Two of the supermarket chains that the 1999 edition of Lonely Planet listed are no longer in business. But EuroCheapo also has an article on when not to be cheap: 12 things worth splurging on in Paris.

Macarons

Paris Breakfast just alerted me to the fact that March 20th is the Day of the Macaron and to celebrate last year, Pierre Herme had a race where you ran around Paris getting stamp validations from all 6 of his boutiques in Paris, after which they would give you "une boîte de 35 macarons d’une valeur de 68 € lors de votre passage dans la dernière boutique." Too bad we aren't going to be there on the 20th. However the list of macaron flavors is quite interesting. I'm not sure I'd like the MAGNIFIQUE (fraise & wasabi) or the foie gras but the ISPAHAN sounds good (rose, letchi & framboise).

E. Dehillerin

Fernando will bug me forever about getting new knives so maybe I should get them at E. Dehillerin in Paris. Then I MUST remember to check my luggage through and not carry it on and NOT to put the knives in my backpack... (Although I hear from Paris Breakfast that they do not carry German knives...Only Sabatier)

Clotilde Dusoulier talks about this professional kitchenware store in her blog Chocolate & Zucchini. She bought some knives there and she says: "I liked that the ones the sales guy recommended were really affordable, so I went for these. My oh my, I had read that good knives change your life, but had not realized how much!" Am I ready for a life change? There are also a lot of comments on that blog posting, including one that said: "What you didn't mention is that they are most gracious and helpful. I shopped and one of the employees kept the kids occupied."

If the clerks are willing to babysit, then maybe they won't chase out three third age Americans who are just browsing! And maybe we can pick up that Mandoline for Camila finally!

Clotilde also lists 3 other kitchenware stores that are in the area on rue Montmartre:
A. Simon (48 rue Montmartre, 75002 Paris)
La Bovida (36 rue Montmartre, 75001 Paris)
Mora (13 rue Montmartre, 75001 Paris) - David Lebovitz says that Mora is a must for pastry chefs and bakers visiting Paris.
E. Dehillerin is at 18 rue Coquillère, 75001 Paris.

Look at all the Arôme concentrés you can get at Mora! I wonder what "barbe à papa" is. Aha! it is "cotton candy", literally "father's beard", and according to wikipedia, Barbapapa is a character in a series of French children's books of the 1970s: "Barbapapa himself is a generally pear-shaped, pink shapeshifting blob-like creature who stumbles upon the human world and tries to fit in." Well, that's one flavor I won't easily forget.


Wait! Wait! I'm not done with this post yet. Paris Breakfast finally told me how to pronounce Dehillerin: Day-ler-ran. I hope she's right.

Marché Couvert

So now we have 3 types of markets. The marché couvert or covered market in an established, usually historic, building. The marché volant that sets up only certain days of the week, and the rue commerçante that is really a street with a concentration of boulangeries and patisseries, supermarkets, produce stores, poultry stores, fromageries, triperies, boucheries, and charcuteries that extend into the street (like rue Poncelet, rue Mouffetard, rue Cler, and rue Montorgueuil). I believe it is Patricia Wells that said that the covered markets are a disappointment.

3rd Arrondissement
Le Marché des Enfants Rouges - 39 rue de Bretagne, Tues, Wed, Thurs: 8:30-1PM and 4PM-7:30PM; Fri, Sat: 8h30AM-1PM and 4PM-8PM; Sun: 8:30AM–2PM; Metro: Filles- Calvaire or Temple. "Hidden away in a quiet part of the fashionable Marais quartier, most people walk straight past the discreet entrance of Les Enfants Rouges, not realising that it is the oldest covered market in Paris..." Offers prepared foods for the BoBos.

10th Arrondissement
Marché Saint Quentin
85, bis Bld Magenta, 75010. Paris. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 8:30 am-1 pm and 4 pm-7:30 pm; Sunday, 8:30 am-1 pm. Near the Gare du Nord in the 10th Arrondissement.

12th Arrondissement
Marché Beauvau/Aligre, Place d'Aligre, 12th arrondissement. Tue-Sat 9am-1pm, 4-7.30pm; sun. 8.30am-1.30pm. Take the #1 Metro to Gare de Lyon and walk north. "Open every day except monday from 7.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. You have to complete your shopping by a walk along Rue d'Aligre, a very good popular market street, where the vendors are shouting out loud to attract the customers!" This combines a street market and a covered market. Should we go early when it first opens or wait until just before 1:30 pm when the best bargains appear?

I Prefer Paris

I Prefer Paris is a blog that I keep running across, perhaps because the author lives in the Marais near rue St. Antoine and so has postings on restaurants and shops in that area. So when I searched for more info on La Vassellerie, voila! he popped up with a posting. I had already discovered his posting on Boucherie Becquerel, the butcher shop on rue St. Antoine with the roast chicken to go. And now I've discovered that he has already rated the boulangeries in our neighborhood. The blog's postings are somewhat difficult to navigate (is ours the same?) but some of his links in the right column are interesting.

There is one for The Elzévir Apartment in the Marais that offers a walking tour of the neighborhood for its guests and even a printable version (24 pages). Their apartment is situated well north of the rue St. Antoine but the tour is interesting nontheless and will help us when we walk up to that area, as brasseries and patisseries are recommended. There is also a detailed apartment guide listing stores and restaurants (and how to turn on the DVD, etc.).

I Prefer Paris also links to the Girls Guide to Paris, which has an interesting list of the Top 20 or More Items to Bring Back.

And the link to HiP Paris led me to "What to Wear in France in the Winter" and "Parisian Street Style: The Art of Layering for the Weather" so we can dress stylishly.

And the link to Paris Update led me to an article on the Upper Rue Vieille-du-Temple shops and to this article on Paris Haute Couture Winter 2010-11. The stockings are a definite "must-have". Do you think Laina would like a pair?

And here are those stylish boots that Penny was looking for.

La Vaissellerie

I ran across this 2007 article from the New York Times: Affordable Europe: Paris which lists apartment rentals, some inexpensive restaurants, and some less expensive shopping destinations, like La Vaissellerie, "le leader des magasins des Arts de la table à Paris." And wonder of wonders there is a Vaissellerie store just around the corner from the apartment on rue St. Antoine!

OH MY GOSH!! Take a look at these photos!! I should be able to get all the white dishware that Camila wants! And the rue St. Antoine store is the one that Richard Nahem of the I Prefer Paris blog writes about: "They even sell large vinyl shopping bags with scenes of Paris in case you go overboard with your fabulous finds and have no room in your suitcase." And since it is open 10AM-7PM, everyday, it will give us something to do on Monday when other things are closed.

Food and Drink in the Marais

A couple who rent out their apartment have put together a guide to the Marais around the apartment, which should be handy for us. They list and describe the supermarkets, the boulangeries, the fromageries, etc. On Rue St. Paul they mention "Miravidi – my favorite costume jewelry shop in Paris" which I already have on our Google map - we were going to pick up something for Camila and Laina. They say "Miss Manon is an excellent boulangerie and even better pâtisserie on the corner of rue Saint Antoine and rue Saint Paul." It is closed on Monday so we better pick up something on Sunday. I sure hope the refrigerator in the apartment is BIG.

And the guide also talks about getting to the apartment from Charles de Gaulle Airport.

Arrival...and there's always an airport shuttle

1) Take the Air France bus (15 euros each) to Gare de Lyon (45 minutes), then Metro line 1 (direction: La Defense) to St. Paul
2) Take RER-B (9 euros each) to the Chatelet Les Halles stop (largest station in the world - long walk), Metro line 1 (direction: Chateau de Vincennes) to St. Paul.  We took the RER-B to the airport and it was a piece of cake but we didn't have to transfer to the Metro.
3) a shared airport shuttle (17 euros each) door to door.  The advantage here is door to door, pay and reserve in advance (rather than figure out tickets/ticket machines).  We used SuperShuttle in 2003 (there was a slight wait while shuttle filled and you never know exactly when you'll arrive, get luggage so it's hard to set a pick-up time), and our experience was positive.  Another company is Paris Airport Shuttle .  Will your iPhones work in Paris without an awful charge if we need to call when we arrive?

Flunch

So when we are really desperate for inexpensvie food we can check out the Flunch in Forum Des Halles. (Except that I don't know what those things in the plat du jour are: fish? lobster tails? chicken? larvae?) And if we don't like that, we can skip over to McDo instead, where they have free wifi...but the menu seems just the same as in the U.S. No petit-dejeuner on a croissant. Or there's a starbucks or a Hippopotamus. In fact it looks like the Forum des Halles is just like any other shopping mall but with a big FNAC.

Or we could pick up frozen food at Picard...

I do wish the French didn't love flash on their websites.

The Most Beautiful Metro Stations in Paris

I was looking for pictures of the murals (and other historical aritfacts?) in the Bastille Metro station mentioned in the Landes "Paris Walks," and I stumbled on the web posting on the most beautiful metro stations in Paris  I think we may have to stay longer than a week

Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou website says that the least crowded time to visit is after 5 pm. By then U.S. museums would be closed but the Pompidou is open every day except Tuesdays and May 1st (that notorious day) from 11 am to 9 pm (last entrance at 8 pm). And their library, which is free, is open from noon to 10 pm! Plus they offer free wifi access to all visitors for an hour and a half so that you can "easily find additional information on the artists and works that are on display, using the Centre's own website, pick up your e-mails, update your blog, etc."

Rick Steve's episode on Paris

This is an experiment in embedding videos. This episode has some dated elements such as prices in francs, but it opens in front of the little, tiny hotel where we stayed in 2003. And it shows the bakery where I got Mitch his breakfast" flan natur"

Navigo Card

David Lebovitz recommends the weekly Navigo Découverte card that runs from Monday morning to Sunday evening. You need to pay 5 euros for the card and need a small photo of yourself but it is only 16.80 euros compared to 29.90 for a 5-day Paris Visite card. Lebovitz has a posting on Paris Transit Options as well. Here's the official Navigo website and further information from Paris by Train. It says don't let the clerks at the station intimidate you by saying it's not available to tourists.

16 Rue St. Paul, Paris - our home away from home

Yes, we will be in the Marais which retains the charm of medieval Paris as it escaped Baron Haussmann’s redesign of the city and later the major urbanization overhaul in the 1960’s. Originally the area was a swamp, flooded by the Seine and used for market gardens. It started to become residential in the 13^th century with convents followed by the nobility’s country homes. The nearby Place de Vosges (Place Royale) was built by Henri IV in 1605 and spearheaded the development of the elegant hotels particuliers reminiscent of tiny castles. And it includes the Pompidou for a little of the 20^th century.

Yet, we are also close to the proletarian Bastille with less elaborate buildings and the symbols of the 1789 Revolution. And its markets!

So here is a picture of our apartment’s living room (salon). Click on the picture to see more of the apartment. Close examination does show what appear to be a radiator or two to answer the question about heat.

And if you will click here you can tour the 4^th Arrondissement with an American academic who has rather rudimentary web skills but an interesting website with music and a weekly news update, as well.

Concert in Notre Dame

Do you think we could go to a Gregorian Chant concert in Notre Dame on 8 Mars, 2011. This one is not free, but not too expensive either (18 Euros). And it's St. Nicolas so what could be better.

Musee d'Orsay

Musee d’Orsay
I love Victorian railway stations – the immense size and the skeletal structure and the knowledge that their prominence in both size and the public imagination was so short-lived, so I’m very taken with the Musee d’Orsay, an art museum in a converted railway station. The Orsay train station was built on the eve of the Paris Universal Exposition of 1890, service was inaugurated in 1900 and only continued for some 30 years before the station was abandoned as the platforms were too short for long-distance trains. In its day the station and its hotel were absolutely luxurious and train stations around the world (Grand Central in NYC and Union Station in DC) were modeled after it.
After its abandonment it served a variety of purposes (movie set, holding center for returning prisoners of war, etc) and was slated for the wrecking ball until it was saved in 1977 with a proposal to transform it into a museum devoted to 19th century art (from 1848 to 1915..well, sort of).
So not only does it have a wonderful building, but also a wonderful collection. And it is much, much smaller than the Louvre so we should be able to handle it. The website is very sophisticated And even if you’re not coming along you’ll be able to visit the museum online. There are a number of videos which I will watch myself when I’m on a better computer.
How will we get there? We’ll take the 69 bus or just walk. And how much will we pay? 8 Euros. There is a lunchtime concert on Tues, March 8 at noon-thirty. I wonder if that’s included in the admission. (No, 12 Euros regular, 6 reduced rate, but that allows admission to the permanent collection) Oh this is confusing. My next job will be studying up on the museum pass.

Top Restaurant Lists

OK, OK, I know this is not how we operate, and we really don't trust guidebooks atall but I couldn't resist.

• Paris Notes: Top 20 Restaurants
• Sally Berstein: Top 10 Restaurants
• NY Times: Paris Restaurants - good for readers' suggestions for budget bistros
• Best Restaurants in Le Marais
• David Lebovitz's Favorite Parisian Restaurants - Read more about A la Biche au Bois and about The Breizh Cafe Creperie located in the Marais. Even more about the Breizh Cafe

Sunday Day #1

So, if we arrive at 8:20 am and get through customs in 1-2 hours, take the Air France bus (Is it free?) to Gare de Lyon - RER Station, will we have time to zip up to the Marché Beauvau/Aligre before taking the metro to the apartment? :-)

Or should we follow Penny's plan of dropping luggage off at the apartment and walking over to the Bastille Market on Boulevard Richard Lenoir between les rues Amelot et St Sabin, since it is supposed to be open only on Sunday and Thursday. In any case we have to go to the market on Sunday because everything is closed on Monday...Fortunately it doesn't close until 3 pm. One person says "Aside from all the expected fares such as vegetables, fruits, cheese, and both raw and cooked meat and fish, the Bastille market also sells plenty of unexpected items: sewing machines, beeswax figurines, and mousetraps, to name a few. The best time to get a deal is just as the market is closing. Vendors will sell plastic bags burgeoning with fruits and veggies for 1EUR!" Hopefully we won't need the mousetrap!
Ahh! I see that the Bastille Market is more commonly known as the Richard Lenoir Market since it runs along Boulevard Richard Lenoir.
Then I suppose we'll have to go back to the apartment to drop off the vege-tables before we go tromping around Paris. We can hit Place des Vosges on our way to or back from the marché.

Does anything happen Sunday afternoon or evening that is de rigueur in Paris? Here's an article on Sunday in Paris which tells you to go eat at the markets or at ethnic restaurants, or in the Jewish quarter for a falafel.

Paris Blogs

One runs across these all the time and wonders whether they are worth giving a permanent place to on a blog roll in the right column. Until then, I'll list a few here. And also look at this list of The top Ten Paris Food Blogs but we probably can't afford the restaurants.

• Chocolate and Zucchini. The author Clotilde Dusoulier wrote a book by the same name and Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris and that also has a list of Edible French Idions.
• David Lebovitz who wrote The Sweet Life in Paris
• The Paris Traveler - last post in 2008
• Paris Breakfast - this artist says "Each morning's post is an 'amuse bouche', a bite of Parisien life style to savor with your morning coffee." and accompanies her blog with watercolors. She also has a post on What Do I Wear in Paris??
• Adrian Moore
• Dorie Greenspan: Paris

And then one runs across sites that you don't know where to post. Like this one: Le Grand Magasin de ma ville (in this case, the 4th arrondissement of Paris). They appear to be commercials for all kinds of businesses and will give us a chance to practice our French! Or you could review Lonely Planet's Top Things to Do in Paris but there's no indication of how they were determined. I did like the comment on the Berthillon ice cream tasting like children's laughter and I'll be sure to try their bitter cocoa. But I find I don't much care for Lonely Planets favorite Paris blogs.

Marchés Volants

I thought open air food markets (marché de plein air) and street markets were pretty much the same but Clotilde Dusoulier lists the marchés volants (roving markets - greenmarkets for which the vendors come in on specific days, set up their stands for a few hours, then pack up and leave). Many of these are later in the day than the street markets that they say run from 8:30 am to 1 pm. There are a lot of them and more as you get outside of the central arrondissements.

Another blog (Paris Connected) says: "Food markets are part of Parisian way of life, there are at least 69 outdoor and 13 indoor markets, and they’re all very popular. Sunday morning’s market is a social institution, and one the most famous is 'le marché d’Aligre', located in east center (between Bastille and Gare de Lyon)." A street market that is best Friday, Saturday or Sunday morning. This is where the Baron Rouge hangs out. "On the Aligre square stands a covered market, le marché Beauvau-Saint Antoine, a bit more expensive, but opening in the afternoon also, and offering many other products, like cheese, fish, meat, poultry, delicatessen, Italian food, selected olive oils and Caribbean dishes."

The Gridskipper also lists Markets for Late Risers or for those that work... And Discover France also has a market list with times and metro stop. And the Guardian has a list of the Best Paris Markets. And French Travel Tips also has a list of markets by arrondissements. We should look at the 10th and 11th arrondissements since there aren't many in the 4th arrondissement.

1st Arrondissement
Marché Raspail: "The most glamourous and the most expensive market on the Left Bank, where the celebrities do their shopping." BioOrganic. Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays. Boulevard Raspail entre les rues du Cherche-Midi et de Rennes. M° Saint-Placide, Rennes, Sèvres-Babylone

4th Arrondisement
Place Baudoyer Wednesday afternoon from 12:30pm to 8:30pm and Saturday morning from 7am to 3pm.

5th Arrondissement
Maubert in Place Maubert just across the Ile de Saint Louis on the Left Bank. Tues, Thurs, Sat 7 am-2:30 pm

11th Arrondissement
Marche Richard Lenoir (Bastille)
"Beginning beneath the famous monument at the Place de la Bastille, two long alleyways of tempting French gourmet products stretch for almost a kilometre. There are street entertainers and musicians, and stalls to hunt down include an irresistible wine seller, Eduard Mace, specialising in rare vintages, and Jacky Lorenzo, Paris's most famous fishmonger." Sunday and Thursday mornings. YouTube Video.

Marché Popincourt
Boulevard Richard-Lenoir, between rues Oberkampf et Jean-Pierre Timbaud
Tuesday and Friday from 7h à 14h30. Evidently it operates when the Bastille Market doesn't. Here's another blog that gushes over the cheese ladies there.
Métro : Oberkampf

19th Arrondissement
Marché Belleville-Ménilmontant
"No, the bobos [same as bohos?] have not gotten this far. At least not quite... Belleville & Ménilmontant undoubtedly remain the last real popular areas of Paris in the true sense of the term, a melting-pot where die-hard Parisian, second generation North Africans and Chinese cohabit most of the time in perfect harmony." This area also has a lot of artists.

Le Baron Rouge, 1, rue Theophile Rossel, 12th

Wine? You ask about wine. Take a look at this place - open Tues-Sunday, 10 am to 6 pm.

This wine bar and bistro with nine yards of character is located behind the covered Beauvau market, just off place d'Aligre. It's a source of wine en vrac, that is, from the barrel, which buyers carry away in their own bottles or in a plastic container called a cubitainer. This colorful place has the cracked tile floors, mustard-colored walls, and ancient zinc bar that virtually define the word bistro. A dozen different red and white wines are available for tasting. Get a glass of Sancerre or Beaujolais to go with your veal sausage and pan-roasted potatoes, and you'll stop thinking about restaurants with Michelin stars.

On weekend mornings during the season, a truck pulls up to the curb with oysters from Brittany, and soon the feasting begins, spilling out into the street. For 5 or 6 euros you get half a dozen shucked oysters and a basket of brown bread and butter. Buy a glass of wine at the bar inside and find a place to eat at one of the barrels on the sidewalk, or on the hood of a parked car. There is likely to be a brass band, singing, dancing in the street, and general merriment.

Markets of Paris by Dixon and Ruthanne Long

Murder in the Marais

I actually like this mystery by Cara Black, especially since it mentions a lot of the places close to the apartment, like Place des Vosges, Ile de St. Louis, and Rue des Rosiers. It gives a real feel for the ancient apartments (without heat - it is November) and the story isn't too bad either.

Paris Update reviews one of Black's latest: Murder in the Latin Quarter.

And there is also a series of historical mysteries by the French writer Claude Izner, which is actually (Thank you, wikipedia) the pseudonym of two sisters, Liliane Korb and Laurence Lefèvre, both booksellers on the banks of the Seine. You can read all about the series at the Gallic Books website.

And then there is A Novel Bookstore (Au Bon Roman) by Laurence Cossé, another French writer, about two booklovers who jointly open a bookstore that only sells the "best" books... The Washington Post notes that the address of this bookstore is next to Sylvia Beach's original Shakespeare & Co., at 8 rue Dupuytren.

Ah, so many books set in Paris and only 2 months to read them all!

36 Hours in Paris

Sigh. I'm afraid I'll never find these New York Times articles for the well-heeled nightclubbing foodies worthwhile reading. The restaurants are too expensive (only 50 euros) and trendy (my gosh, who wants foie gras for every meal?? especially in miso soup or a duck burger with foie gras!). And when the first activity listed on Saturday isn't until 11 am? Of course, if you don't get home until 4 in the morning I guess that is reasonable. The only thing appealing was the walk along "the gentrified Canal St.-Martin" where we hope there are not too many "stylish young families and boho-chic couples". Boho-chic? What would I do without Wikipedia?

Obviously the New York Times is catering to the upper 1% of the population very well. Remind me to steer clear of GISELA WILLIAMS.

Bus 69 Sightseeing Tour

This route runs from the Eiffel Tower to Pere Lachaise Cememtery, and I've seen it mentioned several times. Why go underground when you can take the bus and see the scenery? Eiffel Tower, Ecole Militaire, rue Cler, Les Invalides, Louvre, Ile de la Cite, Ile St. Louis, Hotel de Ville, Pompidou Center, Marais, Bastille, and Pere Lachaise. One ticket from your carnet gives you 1.5 hours to complete your one-way trip, jumping on and off buses as often as you like (but not the Metro). Board through the front door, validate your ticket in the machine behind the driver. Push a red button to let the driver know you'd like to get out at the next stop. Exit through the rear door. Buses run every 10-15 minutes (7:30-21:15) but not on Sunday. Karin Ling mentions 69 in GoNomad.com (as well as some other interesting stuff) and notes that

"This very bus takes you to Belleville, where market stalls line the main boulevard on Tuesday and Friday mornings. Though the food market is traditionally a French phenomenon, at Belleville it’s gone through an evolution of its own: the fruit selection is more exotic, the permission to touch the produce more explicit...The neighborhood is at the crossroads of several cultures"

Continue reading and she talks about the "Bibliothèque Publique d’Information. Enter from the back of Centre Pompidou for an airy space with more than your predictable library offerings (television & language "tapes"), all free of charge."

And I discovered a company, Paris Bus Cards, that actually sells a set of cards that provide bus itineraries. Here is the link to Itinerary 3

which includes..."Get off at the St-Paul stop. It’s a fun shopping street. La rue St-Paul, with its many interesting shops and bakeries, is a delightful place to stroll."

:

How to Ride the Metro

Whatever type of ticket we end up buying we'll need to know how to use the Metro, so you MUST watch this "How to Ride the Metro" video attentively. And then check out the RATP link on the sidebar, and, yes, it's OK to click the little British flag symbol to change the text to English.

Des Escargots et des Poissons

So, I suppose that snails fit into shellfish. Geobeats has a video on Escargot Dining on the restaurant L'Escargot Montorgueil, which was also on Pierre Rival's list of Affordable Bistros in Some like it Haute, "The 80 best places to eat out in Paris." (Maybe we could afford this one: Le Polidor: Former crèmerie and hangout for penniless Left Bank writers; now a student restaurant in the heart of the Latin Quarter. Still serves substantial, soulful food for a few pennies.") And in fact they have a PLATS DU JOUR selection on their website.
LUNDI : Boudin, purée 10€ (Blood sausage and mashed potatoes - I'm assuming)
MARDI : Hachis Parmentier 11€ (Shepherd's pie)
MERCREDI : Boeuf Mironton, purée 12€ (beef stew)
JEUDI: Petit salé aux lentilles 13€ (salted pork with lentils)
VENDREDI : Hachis Parmentier 11€
SAMEDI: Gigot d’agneau, flageolets 16€ (Leg of lamb with beans
DIMANCHE : Gigot d’agneau, flageolets 16€

Now, I was going to talk about a fish restaurant too. Chowhound posters have talked about La Cagouille in the 14th arrondissement. They offer:
Set menu of the day (Le menu du jour) €42 reduced to €38 ($50)
STARTER, MAIN COURSE, DESSERT, COFFEE, ½L WINE

Express menu of the day (La formule du jour) €26 reduced to €23 ($30)
STARTER + MAIN COURSE OR MAIN COURSE + DESSERT

France Today has a list of restaurants by arrondissement with seemingly frank comments. Perhaps we should just take walks to (or bus/metro) to areas further from the center (like Belleville), find inexpensive restaurants and have lunch there, and then cheese, salad, bread and wine at the apartment for dinner. Of course we do want to eat French food and not ethnic food I suppose...

Steak Frites and Other Meat Dishes

I'm trying to figure out how to make Brasseries & Bistros in Paris useful. It's not a very readable book except that the recipes catch your eye: Rocquefort Creme Brulee, Calf's head, the Crying tiger, baked black pudding and house mashed potatoes, morel risotto with asparagus... But it does have the names of 51 bistros so I started looking them up with Google (beginning with Au Boeuf Couronné, the one that serves the calf's head) and ran across a New York Times review that was part of a 2007 article by Mark Bittman: Steak Frites: Seeking the Best of a Classic, in which he also mentions Le Relais de Venise which only serves Steak frites and salad 22€ ($30). Sounds pretty good to me: " You start with a romaine salad with walnuts and horseradish vinaigrette, decent enough (included in the price). The beef is brought sliced, on a communal platter, and served with a secret herb-butter sauce (tarragon, shallots?), along with the very good fries, and then set to rest above votive candles on stations near each group of tables. You get more when you ask for it, usually with freshly made fries."

Ahhh... but the Relais de Venise website is in English and they have a location in New York City. That's no fun. Well, if we decided to go, it could be when we visit the Bois de Boulogne.

On the other hand, Mark Bittman's favorite was Le Severo, which was a bit pricier but he only had good things to say about it, called the blood sausage "ridiculous", and "The boneless fried pig’s foot is crunchy-crisp, with that sticky fattiness that can make meat-eating such a pleasure." Fernando would absolutely love this place. And David Lebovitz has a blog posting on it as well.

Shopping in Paris

I just ran across Paris Shopping website from the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau (PCVB). I guess we're missing the January sales but I was just thinking that I need a nice felt hat. My Italian one from Sym's lost its shape in the rain on the Camino. Maybe something along these lines.

It also appears, from the ParisInfo.com website, that the Marais is a "trendy" area. Is that good or bad?

Les Marchés: Rues Commerçantes

As opposed to periodic open air markets that only set up a few days a week, rues commerçantes are streets that have a concentration of boulangeries and patisseries, supermarkets, produce stores, poultry stores, fromageries, triperies, boucheries, and charcuteries. The Paris Traveler lists Ten Street Markets and says there are "just too many" to list them all.

1st Arrondisement
Rue Montorgueil
Metro: Les Halles
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 10am-6pm and Sunday morning

5th Arrondissement
Rue Mouffetard
Metro: Censier-Daubenton
Hours: 8am-1pm, Tuesday to Sunday

6th Arrondissement
Marché Rue de Buci - wide variety of produce and seafood, Open daily.
M° Mabillon, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Odéon

7th Arrondissement
Rue Cler in the 7th towards the Eiffel Tower
Rick Steves: Rue Cler - The market is at its best Tue–Sat 8:30–13:00 or 15:00–19:30, Sun 8:30–12:00, dead on Mon.
Slow Travel France: Rue Cler

Sablaise Poissonerie, Rue Cler - a video advertisement for a popular fish market, practice your French!

12th Arrondissement
Marche d’Aligre
Metro: Ledru-Rollin
Every morning except Monday, 8am to 1pm. This is also listed in the Marche Volant section. "The market area radiating off the Place d’Aligre is one of the most diverse in the city. It’s a mix of Parisian food market, North African bazaar and flea market, where young and old Paris collide. There are clothing bargains aplenty and classic cafes such as Le Baron Rouge for sitting and sipping. Expect a cultural adventure."


17th Arrondissement
Rue Poncelet

Best Croissant in Paris

So I'm looking for croissants and this search is an effective way to pull up food blogs. First one being David Lebovitz who sends me to Le Figaro's article with a list of the highest rated croissanteries and also to Chez Pim's map of the best croissants in Paris. Chez Pim says "What I usually do when I find myself in a new apartment or hotel in Paris is scout the neighborhood (online and on foot) for a few nice looking places..."

Chez Pim led me to Contest results de la Chambre Professionnelle des Artisans Boulangers-Patissiers, in case you want to find the best almond cake, the best baguette, the best croissant, the best brioche, the best apple tart....

But the Chambre isn't the only one with lists of the best patisserie/boulangerie. Check these out!

• Travel & Leisure: Best Boulangeries in Paris
• New York Times: The Best Croissant in Paris
• NY Times: Flaky Croissants: Finding Paris's Best
• Savoring Chicago: Best Croissant in Paris? - more on Paris from this blog
• More google results...

Paris Visite

The Paris Convention and Visitors Office offers online purchasing of museum and transit packages. Their Paris Visite page offers a 5-day transportation pass for 29.90 euros ($40). The pass allows unlimited travel on the bus, metro, tramway and RER networks in Paris and its suburbs (Zones 1-3). One can purchase it online (although I'm not sure how it is sent to you). A single metro ticket costs €1.60, and can be used for one journey, including all connections. This ticket, valid for zones 1 and 2, allows you to travel anywhere in Paris. On the buses, you use the same tickets as in the metro, with no limit of distance (including suburbs), except on the Balabus, Noctilien and routes 221, 297, 299, 350 and 351. But on the bus, your ticket is only valid for a single journey, with no connections. Looks like it would be simpler to just get the Paris Visite pass, even if we don't use $40 worth, since it covers the whole public transport network (metro, RER, bus, tram, suburban train, Montmartre funicular). These travel passes can be purchased in main metro and RER stations, in SNCF train stations in Ile-de-France and in Paris airports. Certain passes are also available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau.
AND THE TRAVEL PASS MUST NOT BE PUNCHED IN THE MACHINES ON THE BUSES. JUST SHOW YOUR CARD TO THE DRIVER AS YOU GET ON.

Montmartre

Which I always confuse with Montparnasse... Remember Amelie, Montmartre. We need to go the the Funicular. RATP says we need to take the #69 bus west on Rue Rivoli to Rue du Pont Neuf. Then take Bus #85 north to ROCHECHOUART-CLIGNANCOURT, which goes along Rue de Clignancourt, to the east of the Sacre Coeur, and crosses Rue Rochechouart. Now, where did Amelie live?
Fernando talks about the Moulin Rouge but what about Au Lapin Agile?
Why, we could follow In the footsteps of Amelie Poulain!

Les environs de la rue st. paul

Well, we need to see where the nearest 7-11 is! Here's a bistro that has a Happy Hour from 5 to 8 pm: Le Preau. Its beers are 5 euros ($6.63) so maybe we will be buying liquor at a grocery store. Another apartment rental site has a comment that mentions: "Boulangerie Malineau on 25 Rue Saint-Paul is the closest “boulangerie” (bakery) to the apartment. They open at 7 AM and are perfect for croissants and “pain aux chocolate”." So we won't have to go far for a patisserie in the morning.

Paris by Train

Thinking about how to get from the airport to the apartment on Rue St. Paul, I came across this site, Paris by Train which gives the directions from the airport to Paris, although it was posted in 2008.
The RATP ParisVisite page recommends the RoissyBus ("RoissyBus is the most direct and easiest mean of transportation from Charles-de-Gaulle Airport to the center of Paris.")
The RER train takes the same and looks more straightforward. Take the RER to Chatelet-Les Halles and then the #7 Pink metro line to Pont Marie (Cite des Arts). More info at Aeroports de Paris.

I also downloaded the iphone app from RATP, which allows you to search for a route from one station (bus, RER, Metro) to another, which you can also do on the RATP website. We just have to remember that our metro stations are Pont Marie on the #7 Pink line and Saint Paul on the #1 yellow line. And, oh my god, the RATP gives you your carbon emissions for the trip: Les émissions de CO2 pour cet itinéraire sont estimées à... And we can remember that there are also many buses that stop at "Saint Paul": BAL, N11, N16, 69, 76 (which you take east to the Pere Lachaise cemetery, and 96. They offer a map of Paris with the bus routes which I wish I could print out (but maybe they offer it in print form?).

Paris by Pastry

This small book follows the tastings of Jeanette and Georgette as they "stalk the sweet life on the streets of Paris." The way that Georgette (Joyce Slayton Mitchell) writes, you'd think she was a young blogger but she's written 34 books and there is a photo of a pair of middle-aged women on page 162 which I assume are the author and her sidekick "Jeanette". Though not slender they are nothing like the roadtripping Jane Stern so they mustn't be visiting 12 patisseries a day.

Marais

If all goes well, we'll be staying in the Marais quarter of Paris, the 4th arrondisement. Here are some links to more information.

• GoParis@about.com
• GoParis: Paris in March
• A Cheapo day in the Marais

Forever

Last night we watched the documentary film about the Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris and it was worth its 95 minutes. It isn't a travel film but a study of people and burial customs, I guess you could say (they even interview an embalmer and show him touching up a beautiful corpse -- was she really dead?). Sure, they visit the tombs of famous people like Modigliani, Chopin, Marcel Proust, and Oscar Wilde but it is the relationship that living people have with these tombs that the director concentrates on. And, yes, it makes me want to go visit the cemetery, although it was filmed in the spring or summer when it was bright and sunny and when we go in March it is bound to be a bit grayer. I'm not sure that it inspired me sufficiently to read Proust's À la recherche du temps perdu but the comic strip version of it sounded like a good idea. One of the cemetery's visitors was Stéphane Heuet, the graphic artist that illustrated it. And the film did make me want to find out more about the Iranian wrtier Sadeq Hedayat. The director Heddy Honigmann did a very good job, even if sometimes she focused on the interviewee enough to make him/her squirm, although I suppose even that was rehearsed.

Rick Steves also has a walking tour of the Pere Lachaise cemetery. I'd like to go see where Edith Piaf was buried and maybe Abelard and Heloise. To get there from Rue St. Paul, walk up to Rue Rivoli and , and take Bus 76 west in the direction of LOUISE MICHEL to CHARONNE-BAGNOLET.

Paris

SHOOT!!! I just saw that the weather in Paris was 28 degrees!! Jesus Christ that's cold! Almost as cold as Pittsburgh.
So Fernando, Penny and I are definitely going to Paris in March for Fernando's spring break. We are waiting for a response from Vacation in Paris about the apartment and then we'll buy the tickets. Nonstop from Delta or Air France.
Naturally I am trying to immerse myself in all things Paris and naturally beginning with books:

• Paris
• The Piano Shop on the Left Bank
• Hungry for Paris (102 best restaurants - which we probably can't afford so we'll do the shops and markets instead)
• Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris
• Markets of Paris
• Paris by Pastry

And Films

• Travel with Kids: Paris (not that we are taking Isabel just yet but it has a tour of the Paris Sewers. Actually it started out well, they took the chunnel from England to Paris but then the DVD got stuck. Too scratched.)
• Forever (A tour of the Père-Lachaise cemetery in Paris)
• Impressionists on the Seine
• Paris, je t'aime - I didn't realize that we'd already seen this one
• Six in Paris
• Paris

Speaking of film lists, here are 8 Great Movies for Paris Travelers from Enduring Wanderlust. Not the greatest list so let's try this one from the Alliance Francaise of San Francisco: 20 Films in Paris.

Rutas por España

The Don Quijote newsletter highlighted this website for travel in Spain: Donde Viajamos. It is in Spanish but you can find a location you are interested in on a map and then read the article.
For instance, you can learn about the Fiesta de la Lamprea in Arbo, if you like Lampreys. Or you can browse through their 13 Ruta Gastronómica destinations. Or you can check out the Festivals.